blade_47714

I don't know why it wouldn't be for your year. Doo you happen to have an owners manual for the '95? I need a particular question answered from it.

no i dont have a manual on mine sorry.i have just been winging it. do you happen to have a part number on the new scupper valve.

Pull the throttle/shifter assembly up out of the gunwale and adjust the throttle cables so that the levers and RPM match each other. The sticky feeling could be from one of the levers being too tight. There is also an adjustment for that. There is a screw on each side of the assembly- one for one throttle and one for the other. My throttles are not equal either, but I am too lazy to fix it. One side is about 200-300 RPM higher when the levers are equal.

thanks alot for the info.bye the way im not having much luck on the cupper valve recall.they say it isnt for the 95 but i have the same valve as you all described.

In answer to your questions, I would try to seal up the pump with the neoprene. Use silicone only as a last resort. It is messy, and hard to get out of the groove where you would put it. If your driveshaft was stripped in the splines, it would sound like something coming apart. The symptoms you describe are classic of cavitation.

thanks i will try to seal it all up

I'm actually wrong about using the silicone. The boat came with neoprene seals for the pump to hull seal. You could use neoprene weatherstripping (3/8"x3/16") to seal that up. Use an o-ring for the water intake (the little hole at the top of the photos)..

if it was the drivw shaft it wouldent turn at all would it.

I'm actually wrong about using the silicone. The boat came with neoprene seals for the pump to hull seal. You could use neoprene weatherstripping (3/8"x3/16") to seal that up. Use an o-ring for the water intake (the little hole at the top of the photos)..

so i shouldent use silicone at all.and does the ride plate on the bottom have to be sealed all the way up