hrdtduck

The only show replacement fuel pump...not known if it is actually stocked. No gaskets are shown...

Thanks...still wondering if a electrical fuel pump could be used..but I can find nowhere a explanation as to how the carbs work with no float bowl.. a pulsed fuel delivery from a (basically)air driven fuel pump...course I understand that the fuel pump must "meter" fuel delivered to the carbs via it's internal relief valve..as when RPM changes fuel volume has to change too. What I do not get is how the diaphram that is sitting on the needle valve is controlled...I see no external vacuum or connection to the crank case to actuate the diaphram..when I rebuild the carbs all I could see is a fuel connection to the diaphram.

I have never done so, but in my opinion I would stick with the OEM fuel pumps to be safe. Keep us posted if you decide to take another route, thanks!

I have not tried to use any alternate fuel pump arrangement yet,..I did overhaul the carbs and took the boat out for a test last Friday....no joy on the Port engine (the starboard engine is running just fine)...it is even worse, than before rebuild. The engine will not hold high RPM...just oscillates from say 6K rpm to less than 3K...this is all without touching the throttle (other than to have already advance it to full throttle position)....Something I did not check (I know dumb ass!) is fuel delivery which could explain why it idles OK but will not hold high RPM (bad fuel pump or clogged up filter???).....Historically the Port engine always started & run with difficulty than the Starboard engine...it has always been a bit of a little bitch compared to the starboard sweetheart.

Is there a rebuild kit for the fuel pumps?

I am not even sure there is a fuel filter in line with the fuel pump on each engine.

Any ideas guys??

How about this part diagram?

[attachment=1069:10-4-2010 12-31-53 PM.png]

Yes this is the diagram I have too...and I will see if these parts are still available...but I wonder if I can find some semi truck radiator hose that I can make work...the are bound to be cheaper..

Thanks!

If your engines were completely under water you are going to have to check the carbs too they should be OK but take the air boxes off and the flash suppressor (looks like a wire grated rectangle, it lifts right out with a little persuasion) out of the cast part that is bolted to the carb tops so you can see if raw gas is being squirted in while working the throttle. Also was your electronic control box underwater, it should be OK but if fully submersed it could be a real $$$ problem?...check the fuses to see if any are blown.. Check the ignition boxes for water contamination (one on each side of the engine bay, the ones with the red cable coming out of them). you can use WD-40 "Wire Dry" spray or similar to displace the water that may be in electrical connections.

Are you sure you got all the water out of the engine casings?...2 stroke engines pass the intake fuel charge thru the engine casing and are pressurized. (the engines act like a air pump aided by the tuned exhaust pipes) The crankshaft bearings, piston wrist bearing and cylinder wall lubrication depend on the oil in the air charge to lubricate. This is a serious issue and you do not want to be running the engines until you are sure all the water is gone, and the internals are free of water contamination. Otherwise the engine will not survive when you get them running. Sorry but there is no easy solution to a water flooded engine...

You will also need to check for water in the fuel tank (not highly likely but possible).

Wish I could be more optimistic, but you have a lot of work ahead of you...

Unless he spun a drive shaft out of the output hub on the engine...(I did this 3 times when my 98 speedster was young) It happened when I was doing high speed turns and one side intake would come part way out of the water...turns out it is/was alignment issue between the pump and the engine. Then (in 1999) the boat was under warranty and it took the dealership 3 time to figure out why the shaft was spinning out the splines in the motor hub. At least they did! remounting the pumps solved the problem and it has been goo since then...