Serbmarine

You can run her dry for up to about a minute, any longer than that hook it up to a water hose, even on the hose no longer than three minutes, even through you are cooling the engine and exaust the carbon seal on the drive shaft through hull is not being cooled. See you on the water....

Another option.... run to the hardware store and get a male and female hose repair kit and an inline cut off valve. Make a section of hose about 18" long with the male on one end, the female and the cut off valve on the other. Use this to thread onto the boat, that way you are not trying to spin 30 feet of hose. you can spin on the short section, hook up your water hose, leave the valve in the off position, start your boat turn the valve on......and so on and so forth. I have mine setup with a quick connect from the hardware store too. Biggest thing I like is having the cut off valve so I am not running back and forth to the house to cut the water on and off. Just a thought....little bit of water spraying doesn't hurt anything, just doesn't seem proper..

The baffle is going to run you $149.49 through Seadoo, 9 times out of 10 it is the baffle not the gauge. If you turn your own wrenches you can make sure it is the baffle before you replace it. The baffle will have a lead coming off it with a Pink wire and a Pick/Black wire. Using an ohms meter you should have a reading of 0 +/- .01 ohms in the empty position (float all the way down) and 89.8 +/- 0.9 ohms at a full tank (float all the way up). You have to remove the baffle to do this test correctly, but still worth doing before you sink money into a baffle. Readings should increase and decrease smoothly when moving the float up and down.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before removing any components of the fuel system, and work in a well ventilated area.

You can do the same type of check on the oil sender. That sender will have a Blue and Blue/Black wire. If you pop it out of the oil tank you can test with an Ohms meter, make sure the reservoir at the bottom of the sensor is completely drained and test it should read as an open circuit (infinity), then soak the sensor in a cup of oil (again giving the reservoir time to fill, submerged in oil it should read as a closed circuit (1 ohm Max). If there is a problem with the connection, or wire the oil light will stay on (ie, of you forget to plug it back in you will have the oil light lit)

If that stuff al checks out it might be your gauge, bad news is this part is not available from Seadoo anymore. If you do need a gauge, hunt around online, the seadoo part was 204470061.

I think you are referring to the DESS post (digitally encoded security system), the short answer would be no. The DESS post sends a signal to the MPEM or ECM on the unit (depending on your model) when the DESS Key (the safety lanyard) is placed on it. It is a two part process, when the key is placed on the post a magnet on the lanyard engages a switch that wakes up the electronics, then a computer chip in the key is read by the MPEM or ECM at which point the on board computer decides if the key is valid for that unit. Replacing that switch with a turn key, you could most likely trick the unit into thinking the key is on the DESS post (ie the magnetic side of the switch) but you would have to be able to send the computer chip information in order for the unit to respond. Short of being an electrical engineer (or having one on standby) I would think that this would become more costly than replacing with original parts, or buying new keys from a dealer…… Hope that helps….