Dinkum

Your welcome. So you have a 2006 1503 NA engine, though there were 2 editions of that motor. I don't any engine manuals but will do soon. The Explode diagram does not show much detail however you may like to look at the online BRP PARTS CATALOGS which gives you a little more detail, but unlike a proper service manual, does not give assembly specs such as fastening torque settings etc. It is a useful guide to ordering the correct parts for anyone with a home workshop and I got a bit lucky in that respect over the years.

Looking closely at the block, I see the oil port on these are a long way from the cylinder #1 and also seperated by the liquid coolant jacket and then there is of course the rings, but lets not assume the worst yet until the repair bill hits. The only place where it would really be slightly possible to ingest oil is from the cylinder area closest to the timing chain (look at the 'engine block' in BRP parts catalog). It is unlikely that any possible bit of water from the tank would do damage unless moisture was sitting in there for the off-season. Winterization of the engine is not overly required due to a lack of condensation your climate would produce, but people do this anyway as general care and be sure as I would. Other fuel system contaminates are filtered anyway so unless your filter medium was broken, eliminate that idea. This problem sounds like it could have been there for a short while, perhaps the entire day you were on the water even and was not evident until the plug began to foul up with oil causing your idle to be rough. If I were you I'd really be eager to get the compression test done, because a simple diagnosis would certailty prepare you to throw your wallet at the mechanic littlerally. I have a good tester in my garage ;-) (Australia lol)

I'm really sorry to hear or problems though and sincerely hope your engine woes are only somewhat minor. Yes, also please write back to us as I'm also eager to find out what went wrong so everyone can learn from it.

Hello BoomerFL. I'm unsure if the conditions where you live get cold and if you have ever reved the engine without a pre-run. I am also unaware if you have any warranty on your boat, but assuming you don't. If anyone has warranty on their boats, don't touch it. Take it to an authorized service center.

I'm no mechanic so please don't take my ideals as anything close to it. I do have enough basic engine knowledge to look at, diag and fix myself if I had to. You've located the pot that is giving problems and oil in it, fouling up the plug sounds bad enough that a qualified person needs to repair it. I doubt that a valve seal could have come loose so the more likely scenarios are that you may have a cracked oil ring or the head was not properly tentioned in the factory and the head gasket is blown near where oil ports are (better than a cracked ring). A blown head gasket does not always mean that water is going to contamitnate the oil (milky oil). At worst, you'll be up for a new gasket replacement or worse again, a cylinder sleave replacement and a complete hone and re-ring to keep the compression even throughout the engine. These are only scenarios and cannot be justified without someone actually looking at it with the proper compression testing and so on. If you have a compression tester, you will notice a slight drop in compression on number one if there are problems there. Otherwise, if it shows no drop, then (if it were cracked oil ring not scoring the cylinder wall and the compression ring will hide it) pressurized oil could be entering the pot via a blown head gasket and will not really show a drop in compression. Try that anyway and cross your fingers it's only a gasket issue when a mechanic looks at it for you.

Good luck.

Edit: I'm unsure what engine you are running, but assuming it's a 1503 block maybe. Here is an explode diagram of one in case you need to put it back together :-) Just kidding!

I haven't heard of any major hull issues since these with this year Speedster 200.

Thanks Kevin :-) It would be good to have some internal company insight on the topic... oh well. It's early stages yet since back then. Lets hope they fixed these older, seemingly isolated problems and are not prevelant defects waiting to present themselves. In any case it's not a matter if if I'll buy one of these, I am going ahead with a purchace with fingers crossed for it's future. After all, a company such as BRP has a reputation to maintain or they wouldn't sell. I liked OMC engines for years (along with their impecable reputation) and it's nice to see a striving company like BRP take over such a well made product. Recent reading on BRP's response to consumer issues has been somewhat positive, which is a good thing on their behalf.... again reputations to maintain.

This forum gets many hits, but has few posters. There is also a lack of clear detailed undistorted, washed out, photographed or video web documentation in my searches on these things and I hope to make use of a good camera to turn that around with some nice shots of Australia's Great Barrier Reef island areas and local lakes to where I live. I say this in respect to genuine tower fitment, boat covers, trailers, craft in action, (hull ^-^) etc. As a buyer, I'd like to see BRP show the consumer more in detail rather than chick shots and guys with no chest hair in a fast moving boat which forces me to buy one (not) lol. I'll be posting again when it all happens next year with luck. Good to see they incorporated air blower vents into the hull as well (an entry point for water spray haha). In all, floating or not, it would be exciting to simply own one ;-)

Cheers.

I assume the problem was resolved? It amazing what finds it way into the tank. The mention of possible water condensation bought to mind the fact that in September of 2008, it was all over the news in Australia that water was being added to fuel as a result of high prices and dodgy service stations ripping people off. Another problem that also popped into mind was a failing ignition system or something as simple as routine maintenance of the ignition system or plugs. You'd be surprised too that leads can also break down, even after only four years. I've seen jet ski spark plug caps lose continuity and only operate at higher revs when spark power is optimal. They are also difficult to start or run rough when it gets worse. Just don't go anywhere away off-shore while your not confident it's 100% ok.

Difficult to say with seeing it, I'd be looking at the more simple solutions before employing a mechanic thats would like to dip his fingers into your wallet as some do.

Worst case senario... you jealous next door nieghbour hates the fact you own a Sea Doo and put sugar in your tank. Try not to rev it in the driveway maybe ;-) Safe boating.

Hi good people. I'm new here and this is my first post (had to be a thread from 2005 of all places to post). I read this thread from top to bottom about the defective hulls and aledged complaint of poor customer service. I am looking foward to purchacing a new 2009 Speedster for the family to ski and island-hop in Northern Queensland Australia, and found the thread by searching for keywords [Salt Water]. I am shocked by this thread and concerned that my $60,000+ AU spent on one of these boats will have poor back-up, as Australia is not the majority of the market and reputation influences are minor here. Any company, dosn't matter what they sell, should produce quality that extends right past warranty periods and into it's old age, even see a rebuild/refurbish through and give more life.

This thread left me hanging and I can only guess that continued posts by anyone discrediting BRB Sea-Doo may have been landed with an injuction to stop, if legal action was taken in any form from the plaintiff which may or may not have stirred things up. So, at the end of the day, was the customers herein happy with the outcome? Has this thread damaged Sea-Doo sales and continue to do so (because things like this thread are unfinished and seemingly pushed under the carpet... we as consumers have the right to know)? More-over, do new hull designs ensure customers can bash their hulls in a little choppy water and come home safe? Has there been any futher reported hull issues (or other major defects) in the more recent models? Can I spend $60,000+ AU dollars in confidence????

I'm no fibreglass hull professional and don't claim to be one, but I ask, wouldn't spider cracks and foam/hull seperation be from too much give or the gradual crushing of foam from hull bashing, leading to water entering though damaged inner foam sealant and as a result, leading to futher decay of the foam? <just curious... do they use new and better foam now I wonder?