Steve762us

eBay's always a good place to look, if you don't have any local sources.

I just did a partial re-wire on my flip-up cover; there are two connectors each for the tach and speedometer (one for illumination, one for signal, presumably). I replaced the section of wire that flexes with the cover opening and closing--not sure if that will fix my tach, but it shouldn't hurt...seems like a reasonable try, given it's a 96 boat.

I bought a used Sea-Doo Speedster (1995), and generally it's a blast. On my third trip out I broke off the handle to engage the drive (forward/n/reverse). It broke off in the forward position when I pushed it forward, so the engine didn't stop and I was able to get back to the dock (good news).

Now for the not so good news. I took apart the assembly, and the drive plate needs to be replaced. I've called at least a dozen places and they only want (can) sell me the entire assembly for $700.

Does anyone know when I can get this one cast alluminum drive plate?

Unlike many others, I live in AZ and can boat year round. So I'm eager to get back on the water.

If so, send me an E-mail directly.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Jim
Jim_Krontz@Yahoo.com

Howdy Jim!

...did you resolve this problem? I'm not specifically familiar with your model, but the some parts of the linkages on my `96 Challenger look pretty simple to repair or refit...have you eyeballed the assembly yet? Post some pics...it might be an easy fix...

Just to follow up...looks like the fix worked. Ran her around for a few hours, trim does affect ride in rough and smooth water...I need to get more time with it to learn what it can do, fully, but it is now functional.

Well I don't know it was done, but this person states this SeaDoo Speedster sunk!

http://cgi.ebay.com/...0198989144&rd=1

Seems like it wouldn't be too tough to sink one...maybe a couple of feet of water in engine compartment, or a bit more, to get things rolling?

My 1996 Challenger has a couple of large foam blocks in the engine compartment, and a few small pieces forward...doesn't seem like a enough to offset the weight of engine & fiberglass, tho!

I noticed recently that whenever I stop my boat on the water, some water comes onto the boat deck through the drain hole that is located under the driver seat towards the back of the boat.  This drain hole of course, is connected to the bilge pump and hose that drains water out.

Hopefully you've figured this one out by now, but just in case....

On my 1996 Challenger, the cockpit drain hose doesn't connect to the bilge pump...it runs along the starboard stringer, then rises up slightly to it's own thru-hull fitting on the transom, just outboard of the coolant connector back there.

There is a rubber scupper valve just inside the transom mount ring. Mine has a big chunk missing out of it, and my boat would ship several gallons of water into the cockpit fairly often after I first purchased it (Aug 07). The rise on the drain hose is only a few inches, which exacerbates the situation.

I looked around other forums, and some folks seemed to like the Max flo ball-type replacement scupper valves, but others said they leaked just as bad as the OEM valve. A lot of people don't like the constant clacking noise that the ball generates.

I cut a piece of old inner tube and fashioned a hanging-flap style valve to cover the flat nylon transom ring. It's held by the two upper screws; I RTV'd a stainless fender washer onto the outside of the flap to give it some weigth and to maintain it's "flatness", so it can seal against the transom ring. It works well...in one day, I may see a quart come in, one time...many weekends, I never see any!

BTW, I also have a "strainer" of window screen inserted in the cockpit drain opening..it keeps leaves and miscellaneous bits out of the hose, and helps the flapper seal properly. I'd recommend doing that, regardless of the type scupper you settle on.