firepit1

The towing issue with my Sebring is what kept me grounded to buying the Sportster LE, I would love a 6 seater and more power but I wasn't willing to buy another car just for that. On the capacity side, I'm sticking to my owners manual for the right info, even my Hayes manual states the 2000lbs limit.

I've probably only towed my boat maybe 200 miles this year and only once have I had to stop quickly and I was surprised that the boat didn't push the car that badly. I've never been in a situation where the stop was hard enough for the anti-lock to kick in, but it's bound to happen sooner or later.

How about this question: Who towes and then runs on cruise control?
I don't do it. In my mind it like driving in the rain with cruise control on, which is a huge "Don't".

The max towing on 1997 convertable Sebring is 1500LBS.
The curb weight is approx 3396LBS.
What could be done and should be done are 2 different things.
If you add 4 people and full gas you're hauling 2800LBS. in a 3400LBS car.
for a total of 6200 LBS!.

Towing with this bad boy is a no-no.

-G

The 1500lbs limit is only on the 4 cylinder and not the V6. I did a lot of looking into this before laying down the cash on this boat. The V6 JXi is rated at 2000lbs and is noted as such in the owners manual. I've even made some very slight mods to bump up the horsepower due to the hills in MO. I agree it's not as safe as 1 ton pickup, but it tows fine, it doesn't sag the vehicle and with a 1200lbs boat, plus trailer, plus toys and my normal 3 passengers, I'm on the limit, not over it.

I tow my 01 Sportster with a '97 Sebring Convertible (V6 2.5L) and it does a great job in my opinion. I could use trailer brakes for stopping in an emergency situation, but I don't have them. The Sebring has a 2000lbs towing limit and I'm below that number. Infact, I remember the old doo comercials where they are showing a Eagle Talon (eclipse clone) towing a 4 seater around like mine.

Call me crazy........

Well I installed the depth sounder on Friday, tested it on Sunday and was completely happy with the install and performance. I placed the transducer just ahead of the carbs in a low groove section in the hull, I did all the usual prep work myself as far as testing, sanding, mounting and running the cable.
I used a norcross highspeed depth sounder using the supplied dual purpose hull transducer, some in-hull boat setups require you to purchase their higher end transducer which gets installed in a mineral oil tank to avoid interference, which is just as simple to install. Here is the product I installed:
http://shop.norcross...EWPROD&ProdID=5

Mine is a dry setup and is working great even at wide open throttle.

The display fit easily into the dash right behind the steering wheel, on a sportster this is empty, on the dual engine models, I believe it is where the fuel gauge is normally located. I powered the unit off of the bilge hot wire and grounded it just the same. (yes I know the draw from the bilge switch can cause low voltage to the depth finder, but it didn't effect it and when doo you ever run the bilge, only when your sinking!)

Benefits: None really, it's more for interest, by the time the low water alarm goes off, 3ft is the lowest setting, you are probably asking for a rock in your pump because the water level drops to 1ft before you know it. But placing the transducer in the hull has a cleaner look, works better in high speed situations and you avoid drilling in the hull and you will never knock it off beaching or trailering your doo.

I'll take some pictures when I have time.

Next project(s): a power block for accessories so I can wire projects like this properly and cleanly and then a am/fm/CD player.

Doo you later!

for lack of pictures, here is what may be causing it. Maybe not too... The boat rests firmly on the left and right supports, but does not even touch the one on the bottom. Is it supposed to? Do I have it too high on the trailer?

Bottom support? You don't want the bottom of the boat touching anything on the bottom of the trailer, only the bunks and the winch roller/stopper should be touching. But don't ever remove the pads on the bottom of the trailer, depending on the water level at the dock, your boat may come into contact with that cross member and no pads mean damage.

Your setup may be correct. You have to remember the bunks are supporting the hull, which is mainly a hallow "drum" and hitting bumps in the road will cause it to "boom" at times.

I have seen a boat or two that were not trailered correctly and the result is hairline cracks in the gel coat right around where the bunks make contact with the boat. Keep your eye out for that.

Good luck.