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- Group Members
- Active Posts 7
- Profile Views 5,947
- Member Title Novice
- Age Age Unknown
- Birthday Birthday Unknown
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Gender
Not Telling
Previous Fields
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Year of DOO
2004
-
Model of DOO
Sportster 4-TEC
-
Engine in DOO
Rotax 4-TEC
-
Hours on DOO
50
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Real Name
Ray Smith
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City
Sark
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Posts I've Made
In Topic: Anode
09 October 2007 - 12:06 PM
For freshwater boating, chances are you'll need magnesium or aluminum alloy anodes.
Zinc will not protect anything in fresh water because there it has a potential of about 900 milliamps; whereas, a magnesium in freshwater will have the 200 milliamp spread needed.
In saltwater, zinc will have a potential of about 1200 milliamps.
So make sure U order a fresh or salt water anode according to your needs.
You must change them if U go from fresh to salt and back for any lenght of time.
In Topic: 2006 sportster scic
13 August 2007 - 02:26 AM
There may not be an "Hour meter" as such on your model.where is the hour meter located on these machines?
Look at BRP parts cat for your model.
http://epc.brp.com/l...CookieSupport=1
When the dealer plugs in their computer it reads the engine hours for service info.
I installed a teleflex hour meter in my Sportster as I try to do all my own work.
My nearest dealer is 12 miles by sea :-)
In Topic: Anode
13 August 2007 - 02:17 AM
Additional info.Warning: Reverse gate bolts may be installed with locktite.Hi Folks, My sportster 4-tec is used in the ocean and requires anodes.
Where should I place them?
Should I have more then one?
An anode is listed as a spare part but the exploded view does not show where it is placed.
Ok so i got the seadoo anode part #204470290 but still No idea where it is placed???
From the local chandlery I purchased 2 small round/flat anodes and proceded to remove the bolts on the Reverse gate.
They fitted just nice and look the part, one on each side.
Warning: Bolt heads may round off.
Warning: Plastic bush/stainless center may be seized.
Please see photo and next posting in this thread.
This job could take, a while, a beer and some swearing.
The small bolt head compared to the shaft size required the use of an impact driver to remove without rounding off the bolt heads.
Behind the bolt is a stainless washer and a plastic washer. Clean.
Next is a stainless sleeve and plastic bush.
Carefully tap out the stainless sleeve NOT the plastic bush.
What I found was the sleeve was siezed in the plastic bush, I believe because the area was sprayed with WD40 by the previous owner. (he gave me a can to take with the boat)
WD40 (oil based) caused the plastic bush to swell and lock on the stainless sleeve.
So the previous owner loosened the bolts just enough to allow the gate to move and used locktite to hold them in. Wrong, Wrong, Wrong.
When the bolts are done up tight the sleeve is locked on each side and rotates in the plastic bush, not on the bolt.
So with a fine sand paper and a steel rod I sanded out the plastic bush JUST enough to allow the sleeve to move somewhat freely in the plastic bush.
(I used a large drill bit with the sandpaper wraped around)
Apply Silicon spray ONLY to all your plastic seadoo parts!!!!!!!
Do not use an oil based lube.
Place an anode on each side and bolt er back up, remembering to put the plastic washer under the stainless washer.
Now my reverse gate works smoothly without any play.
The anodes are installed and it looks almost like a factory job. :-)
PS: the seadoo anode is the same except about twice the diameter and weights half as much. ???
The anodes I used are made in canada.
Sacrificial anode in google will give the reasons why U need em even in fresh water.
To view this subject/parts/placement goto the BRP online parts catalogs and do an anvanced search for "anode".
One small anode in center of reverse gate or at each end as i have done.
2 on the heat exchanger/running plate. One each side on the rear edges.
One on the pump housing, left inside section.
One on the electricty system, connected to the common negative inside the dash.
For your anodes to work they must be electricly connected to the part/parts to be protected so use a multi meter to check conductivity between anode and parts.
Part #204470290 is for the electric system. sportster 4-tec 2004.
Seadoo anodes are made by Martyr in Canada.
Above seadoo part is Martyr #CMR-2.
The ones i used on the reverse gate Martyr #CMR-1
In Topic: Need to identify a part :)
08 August 2007 - 05:19 PM
try to find the part at www.brp.com parts catalogs, link below is all one line.I guess make sure it is all dry and that no wires are touching off each other.
http://epc.brp.com/l...CookieSupport=1
A 5amp fuse is still a low fuse and shouldd not cause wires to melt.
Keep on looking for the trouble. Unplug all connections on this wire, apply dielectric grease or silicon spray on all connections.
It could be the unit this fuse powers that is at fault.
If the 5amp fuse blows it's time to stop boating until U sort it out.
In Topic: Anode
08 August 2007 - 05:01 PM
Warning: Reverse gate bolts may be installed with locktite.Hi Folks, My sportster 4-tec is used in the ocean and requires anodes.
Where should I place them?
Should I have more then one?
An anode is listed as a spare part but the exploded view does not show where it is placed.
Ok so i got the seadoo anode part #204470290 but still No idea where it is placed???
From the local chandlery I purchased 2 small round/flat anodes and proceded to remove the bolts on the Reverse gate.
They fitted just nice and look the part, one on each side.
Warning: Bolt heads may round off.
Warning: Plastic bush/stainless center may be seized.
Please see photo and next posting in this thread.
This job could take, a while, a beer and some swearing.
The small bolt head compared to the shaft size required the use of an impact driver to remove without rounding off the bolt heads.
Behind the bolt is a stainless washer and a plastic washer. Clean.
Next is a stainless sleeve and plastic bush.
Carefully tap out the stainless sleeve NOT the plastic bush.
What I found was the sleeve was siezed in the plastic bush, I believe because the area was sprayed with WD40 by the previous owner. (he gave me a can to take with the boat)
WD40 (oil based) caused the plastic bush to swell and lock on the stainless sleeve.
So the previous owner loosened the bolts just enough to allow the gate to move and used locktite to hold them in. Wrong, Wrong, Wrong.
When the bolts are done up tight the sleeve is locked on each side and rotates in the plastic bush, not on the bolt.
So with a fine sand paper and a steel rod I sanded out the plastic bush JUST enough to allow the sleeve to move somewhat freely in the plastic bush.
(I used a large drill bit with the sandpaper wraped around)
Apply Silicon spray ONLY to all your plastic seadoo parts!!!!!!!
Do not use an oil based lube.
Place an anode on each side and bolt er back up, remembering to put the plastic washer under the stainless washer.
Now my reverse gate works smoothly without any play.
The anodes are installed and it looks almost like a factory job. :-)
PS: the seadoo anode is the same except about twice the diameter and weights half as much. ???
The anodes I used are made in canada.
Sacrificial anode in google will give the reasons why U need em even in fresh water.
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