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I suspect it's a throttle-by-wire system in that it might use a cable from the throttle lever to some type of potentiometer which then sends a signal to some type of throttle sync system which in turn controls the fuel injection system.
Personally I think it's kinda stupid to have a single control for dual engines. I mean, one of the beauties of having twin engines is the docking maneuvering ability of operating one engine in forward and one in reverse.
And if single control was superior, why don't you see it on other boats with twins? I mean, if any boat could benefit from single control it would be offshore racing boats and they don't use it despite the electronic engine management systems they use.
Tom
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Savannah, GA
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Interests
Tennis, motorcycles, boats
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Year of DOO
2002
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Model of DOO
Speedster 160
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Engine in DOO
Mercury Mē Jet Drive 240 EFI
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Posts I've Made
In Topic: Twin engine Single Throttle Question
21 March 2007 - 01:33 PM
In Topic: trailer ball coupling size
21 March 2007 - 01:19 PM
The only trailer couplers that use 1 7/8" balls nowadays are those small utility type trailers. You know - the ones that are 6 to 8 feet long and have stake-bed sides. Not sure if it's a DOT requirement, but you'd be hard pressed to find a boat trailer coupler with less than a 2" ball requirement.
And if you're looking for a recommendation, try an QMC hitch ball which is 100% Stainless Steel. Not only will it always look good due to no rust, it won't ever corrode which means no seized nut.
Tom
And if you're looking for a recommendation, try an QMC hitch ball which is 100% Stainless Steel. Not only will it always look good due to no rust, it won't ever corrode which means no seized nut.
Tom
In Topic: Electrical Speedster Issue
01 June 2006 - 02:02 PM
Garry offers very good advice. Additionally, I would highly suggest that you locate the "black box" that all of your electrical connections terminate in. On my 2002 Speedster it is underneath the tool storage bucket located in the helm console and is literally a black box looking thing that has a series of terminals. Once you find yours, label each wire so you know which connector it goes to. Then, disconnect all the wires and clean the blade connectors thoroughly. Then reconnect.
Tom
Tom
In Topic: trailer service
01 June 2006 - 08:47 AM
nookie- Any reputable trailer repair place would be able to give you advice on the conversion of your trailer. Additionally, check out the trailer parts section of Boater's World catalog here:Hello thumper,
I'm looking to convert my 4-tec trailer to a braked version.
Can you post some pics on your brake setup ?. was that standard or did you convert it yourself.
Who makes your trailer and which model ?.
Who makes the brakes ?., electric or hydraulic ?
I'm looking at dics/hydraulic setup myself, but have not figured out what is easier,
new axle or do conversion.
Thanks for the reply
-Gabe
http://www.boaterswo...3Bciwheels-accs
Since your boat is relatively light, I would suggest you go with a hydraulic surge brake setup. Electric brakes are nice, but are much more expensive and more difficult to setup properly since they also require a controller in the tow vehicle. With a surge system, you're not limited to a specific tow vehicle.
thumper - the above link should also be useful to you as well.
Hope this has helped some.
Tom
In Topic: trailer service
31 May 2006 - 12:30 PM
Galvanise what else? Obviously the bearings can't be nor the bearing races nor the spindle. As for brake components, there's limits there too.just had the trailer serviced and the wheel bearings are on their way out already after just one years use (salt water launches), greased all the grease nipples and the trailer brake started working again! as it had seized, although we have a different mechanism to your us braking system here in the uk - dont understand for the life of me why they galvanise the trailer chasis but not anything else - oh well one gallon of waxoyl coming right up.
Tom
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