I have posted a couple of times regarding this topic but nobody is responding to any of the posts. To those who have boats with engines that have the closed cooling systems (antifreeze cooling similar to cars) but have intercoolers and exhaust cooling using lake water (I have the 260 SCIC), I have a question: my dealer said that winterizing these new boats is 3 simple steps -- 1)pour in a can of SeaFoam or some other fuel stabilyzer during your last run of the season, 2)once out of water and on trailer, idle the engine for approx 30 seconds, blipping the throttle a few times to expel water from the seawater cooling systems (he said water that doesnt get shot out will evaporate from the high heat in the system), and 3) take it home and put the battery on a trickle charger. DONE!
Now he said some folks in higher humidity/rust-prone parts of the country may remove fuel rail and squirt some lube in the cylinders, but it isnt necessary. I just start the motor every other month or so during winter and keep things lubed and he said that is just fine.
Thought it seemed too easy (I am used to sterndrive V8 I/O boats and the winterizing procedure for those was so in depth I usually paid $250 to a mechanic to winterize it) so I called another dealer who said that method is just fine as well!
Anyone think this is incorrect? Anyone think it still leaves enough water in the system to actually crack or damage components when it freezes? Our winters get to 20 below, but both dealerships I spoke to are in this same climate.
I keep seeing posts where guys are spending an entire day removing hoses, intercoolers, using compressed air, pumping antifreeze through the system, etc., and I just cant believe the winterizing methods can be that far apart and different!
MT180SPMember Since 16 May 2012
Offline Last Active Sep 30 2012 10:26 AM
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