devilshorty

I own a 1995 jet boat and i found a source for great manuals on CD for the jet boat but they start at 96 i have a sportster version and was wondering what the differences between the 96 and 96 sportster model, cause i plan to sue this manual to help me wiht my cavitatin problems....please let me know!..

I have a 95 speedster. FYI: The shop manual for it covers both the speedster & sportster models. Do you have the 657x engine in your sportster?

yes i have the 657x two-stroke engine in my boat, where did youg et yoru manual? does it cover cavitation?

I've been operating a 2003 Seadoo Sportster 4-Tech; approaching the fourth season. Each season has brought an operational disaster. Very first season (2003), I was stranded on the third trip out due to a failed air intake valve. When I was towed in, Safe Sea (of Rhode Island) towed me at 25 knots without clamping the necessary hose in the back of the engine compartment (they claim they had no knowledge of this but were certified to tow any watercraft) - result was salt water injection whose symptoms did not manifest themselves until the following season.

2004: towed in twice due to engine failure; first time was due to the oil pan screw loosening and falling out (could this be from vibration due to waves in open ocean?), second was due to the corrosive damage from the 2002 season improper tow which SafeSea never took responsibility for. Bombardier replaced the engine even though it was just out of warranty. Engine replacement took over 30 days; I missed one-third of the season.

2005: Radio has failed - backplate is completely rusted over.

Front right compartment cover just "came off" when opening while stationary - attribute to wave stress? Dealer said they could not repair - would require a fiberglass repair specialist. They could replace the cover for $550 (???!!!) - not an option. I repaired this myself with marine cement.

Operational error in shallow water; mud/rocks - rocks went into impeller damaging jet pump and impeller; repair was $750+ and dealer (Honda Suzuki World of Warwick RI) took 35 days to repair -- way too long. Additionally, their winterization cost had climbed from $149 in 2003 season to over $300 this season and they claimed this was due to cost of petroleum products. Component cost of oil was only $12 in 2003, so even if you doubled that it did not account for the price increase. Rhode Island only has one authorized Seadoo repair shop and that is them. This is terrible logistics for a company (Seadoo) that wants people to buy their boats in the Ocean State (Rhode Island). I now take my boat to Connecticut for repairs.

2006: TBD

Overall: When this boat is running, it is a dream - however, Narragansett Bay produces 2-4 foot seas in the afternoons and I believe the boat was not designed to take that kind of a pounding... reference stress damage to compartment cover. You can run the boat in 2-3 feet of water most of the time with no problem but if there's mud with rocks embedded, look out. The high speed tow cautionary is buried on page 73 of the manual but needs to be a separate handout with signature required -- also - the towing companies should have been notified. Prime concern with me is the lack of authorized repair shops in my area; in a place like Rhode Island, it is a major drawback to people buying this type of boat. The dealer is abyssmal in service (time to repair and cost). As a result, I would not buy from Seadoo again unless I was in an area with healthy business -- competition from other authorized dealers.

well to try and sympathize i boguht a 95 sportster from my uncle when i took it while he ownded it ran great after i boguht it form him the second time i took it out i guess my ring finally gave out and i had to ride the whole way home at about 35% power since anything faster just redlined the engine, i live in martin county florida, right on the ocean, in my city of stuart there is probably over 20 boat repair bussinesses, only one works on the seadoo's and they dont have a mechaninc right now. im 16 and the boat is perfect for me and so muhc fun but like you said when there not workin its a pain int he ass, my summers 2 weeks away and the boats chillin in the garage, so it looks like i get to figure out how to change this ring..

This boat has been sitting for three years now because this dam board is fried and Seadoo wants a thousand bucks for a new one. Does anyone have any info were the problem is on the board. Which Componet keeps frying on these. I would Love a skematic if someone has one. Oh I would do cartwheels for a skematic. I would go Streaking for a skematic. Someone anyone please save what little hair I still have left on my head.

P.S. the short is in the board its a fact! The charing system/ starting system is the fuse that keeps poping. I have power comming through on the negitive side of the power supply to the board once the Battery gets hooked up

Thanks in advance

whow thats a hella pain in the ass, im sure youve alreayd tried this but ill still throw it out there..have you looked on e-bay just for the hell of it?

What boat do you have? On the standard Seadoo jetpump the impeller is threaded and screws onto the pump shaft- no nuts - unlikely it will come loose.. the over revving you describe could possibly be cavitation/ aeration in the pump. That cone you see holds the pump oil in, and shapes the jetstream leaving the pump. It is sealed. If you were to remove it, besides making a mess, you would find the pump shaft, bearings, etc. The shaft is made on that end where it can be held while the impeller is installed/removed.

oh whow thanx im glad i didnt end up getting that off then, so you say air in the pump?? how woudl i solve that then cause im really at a loss, its not making sense to me... oh and i have a 96 sportster

While out one day i went to power down my sportster to idle for a second and take a break, once finished i started my way back home , and once i gave the throttle over 50 percent power the engine made a noise as if it was over revving and the boat persisted in running at teh same speed not accelerating nor decelerating, i looked in through the intake and wasnt abel to see anything obstructing the flow nor when i pulled off the cover over the driveshaft where you lube the two nipples nothing seemed wrong either. im baffled as to wat could be cause this almost slipping sensation, any ideas?

i havnt found a single nut on the shaft but when i took off the sterring nozzle i found a black cone shaped object at the endof the shat which apperas to be a cover for the end.. after removing the three holding bolts i pulled onteh conebut it didnt comeloose i didnt want oull on it to hard so i have just left itat that for nowam i on the rigfht track should i just pull on the cone harder since maybe it was sealed in via a gasket and sealer?