2011 Challager 230
Posted 04 September 2011 - 01:45 PM
Posted 21 November 2011 - 04:17 PM
On the down side, I've had to become very careful about sucking stuff into the intake grates. Ropes, sticks etc all become hazards that you can't easily fix yourself. I've done both and every time it's a trip to the dealer. I've had the boat 3 seasons now and I still enjoy it a lot.
Posted 22 November 2011 - 04:21 AM
I'm looking to purchase a 2011 Seadoo Challager 230 and want to hear the facts from current boat owners of this model. What do you like about it and want you don't. Looking for the real truth here.........
Hi, I also have a 2008 Challenger SE 430 HP. It has great room and good looks. Stereo is OK. Bimini top is nice and large and covers the main seating area. Lots of storage area. Goes close to 60 MPH, if you can afford the fuel. Best MPG is about 2 @ 28 MPH/5800 RPM. Horsepower cost! I like the slow speed handling. It takes a bit of time to get used to it. It did for me anyway, after 25 years of outboarding. That is because of the two controls, one for throttle and one for direction. Also the steering in reverse is opposite what I was used to with my old boat. It is neat to be able to turn the boat around at idle in place. A steering lock would be a nice thing to have while in neutral. If you have to stop and get up to do something while the engine is idling, the boat will eventually start spinning in place. Looks funny from the shore.
The low draft is great but don't open the throttle up in less than 3 feet of water or you can suck things into the pumps. That low draft and no rudder or motor sticking down also come into play during slow speed maneuvering. They normally tend to hold the stern in place a little. This boat doesn't have anything sticking down and the stern slides more easily and the boat is effected more by wind and waves. It also pivots in the center. Sometimes it is a little more challenging at the dock. But then, I have been told, you can do a 180 at speed, if you feel like it. It will also brake nicely. HOLD ON.
Speaking of sucking things into the impellers, that is a real concern. I have done it 5 times in 2 years. Sometimes it will chew up a small stick. Sometimes turning off that engine and going backward with the other engine and then coasting will flush it back out. That only worked once for me. One time I had to limp home, 3 hours, on one engine and put it on the trailer to get it out. It would be great to have a clean-out like the Yamaha. Maybe a grate with more tines and smaller inlets would help. That would probably limit performance though or maybe brake causing more damage. Maybe just staying on a lake is better than a river. So far I'm 2 for lakes and 3 for rivers. Rivers seem to always have more debris and you constantly have to look for it.
The 2011 model has some nicer features than the 2008. The additional forward table mount, electronic controls, a neutral steering lock and I think circuit breakers instead of fuses which are nice features that I wish I had on mine.
One of my super chargers gave up around 50 hours during the second year of service, this summer. The book says to check them every 200 hours or 2 years. BRP very nicely authorized rebuilding both of them. Apparently, there was a problem with the ceramic friction washers and they started to replace them with titanium coated metal ones. The ceramic washers didn't like synthetic oil and needed natural oil. BRP came out with a blend of oil that they thought was OK for them. I'm not so sure it was OK because that was what my dealer put in my engines. I don't know if they changed over to titanium coated washers for the newer boats. I read that in 2008 they changed over only for PWCs.
There are a couple of small annoying things. The mooring cover supports have a weak and flimsy plastic strap holder at the top of the poles that break very quickly. They should be made of something more durable. I am holding mine together with reinforced tape until I can fabricate a better item. The bow foot area collects water while the boat sits at rest if it rains when uncovered or a lot of wet suits. The floor tilts to the front and it gets about an inch of water that sits there until you hit the gas. Then it rushes to the rear and either goes in the center hold or continues back to the rear drain getting the rear rugs wet. It would be nice if there was a drain up front. I may drill a couple of holes up front to let the water out.
Hope that helps someone.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users