Problems with rotax 215hp
Started by H-do-O, Apr 03 2011 04:08 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 03 April 2011 - 04:08 PM
Went out yesterday for the fourth time this year. Boat started fine and ran for about 15 seconds fine, and then it started struggling staying at idle or throtleing up. I picked up the family at the dock and off we went because I thought I sucked up something in the impeller and needed to blow it out. Tried giving some gas and I could tell it wasn't the impeller! Turned around and headed for the dock top speed about 15 mph and it died. Popped the engine compartment and looked around and smelled gas. The obvious things are fine. Gas, oil, coolant, electric. While cleaning the coolerdrain under the back seat out I must have poked a hole in the gas tank. I sealed it today with marine epoxy and am waiting for it to dry. I'm not going to try and start it untill tomorrow when everything is good and dry. Do u think this is the reason my engine isn't starting?
#2
Posted 03 April 2011 - 05:05 PM
It definitely could be possible, how much gas was in the tank when it died? Keep us posted when you are able to start it back up.
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#3
Posted 03 April 2011 - 06:09 PM
full tank!
#4
Posted 05 April 2011 - 08:37 AM
Ok so I tried to start it yesterday with no luck. It turned over strong but it gave me no indication of starting, not even a sputter. It has been a gradual decline from running 5 min to 2min to 30 seconds to sputtering on and off and now nothing. This makes me think it is the fuel system. It cant be the fuse because it would have been instant with that. I can hear what i think is the fuel pump working everytime i try to start it. I can still smell a lot of gas even though i cant see any leaks. Can anybody give me a checklist to work on or a diagram showing the fuel system on this motor. pump, filter, lines...ect. The owners manual is not too specific on the motor.
thanks
thanks
#5
Posted 05 April 2011 - 08:45 AM
Well that is a bummer, it is too bad it couldn't be something simple. Sounds like it might be time to invest in a shop manual, http://seadoosportbo...er-shop-manual/. Don't be confused by the 2006 model year on the manual, this is the correct manual for your boat as they kept the same manual from 2006 - 2009. They then introduce a new manual in 2010, http://seadoosportbo...es-shop-manual/.
With an active subscription to the SDSB Club, http://seadoosportbo...ory/1-sdsb-club, you will be able to download both manuals. This should definitely get you pointed in the right direction. Keep us posted on your findings.
With an active subscription to the SDSB Club, http://seadoosportbo...ory/1-sdsb-club, you will be able to download both manuals. This should definitely get you pointed in the right direction. Keep us posted on your findings.
Need a shop or part manual for your boat or PWC? Join the SDSB Club here, http://seadoosportboats.com/join and download them here, http://seadoosportboats.com/manuals
Want to spread the word about SeaDooSportBoats.com and sport some official SDSB Gear? See what we have to offer here, http://seadoosportboats.com/gear
Want to spread the word about SeaDooSportBoats.com and sport some official SDSB Gear? See what we have to offer here, http://seadoosportboats.com/gear
#6
Posted 06 April 2011 - 09:44 AM
so i got to work on the boat a little last night. My first test was a rag dipped in gas and stuffed it in the air intake. I tried this and the boat started right up and ran for about 1 min until i turned it off. So this makes me think it was the fuel pump so i popped the lillte hatch and disconnected the line. I turned the battery on and fuel pumped right out. My next step was to check the same hose where it connects to the fuel rail, so i disconnected there. Same thing happened fuel pumped right out. I learned that the fuel filter is in the gas tank before the pump so it cant be that either. It has to be the fuel rail or the fuel injector. It sputters now when i try to start it but not for long. Its hard to run on 2 cylinders when you only have three. It has male head torx screws to pull the rail and injectors out which i dont have a socket for. Im gonna pick some up today hopefully. Any advice on the rail and injectors?
#7
Posted 06 April 2011 - 09:52 AM
left some things out. I find it kind of funny that there is no check engine or any messege on the DIC. From what it says everything is fine. I pulled some fuses out and it definatly noticed that. 91 octane is the lowest gas grade the boat has ever seen. I've never put 87 or 89 in it. If i pull this fuel rail and injectors and they spray fine im at a loss. Its getting air and fire because of the rag test so it has to be fuel. If this doesn't work it is time to throw in the towel and go see the seadoo dealership.
#8
Posted 13 April 2011 - 09:43 AM
OMG!!!! It was bad gas! Be careful if you fill up at a velero gas station. I put 91 octaine in which must have stood for 91% water.
#9
Posted 13 April 2011 - 10:16 AM
Glad you got it figured out! Water and dirt in tanks are the worst in any engine. At least water will work it's way out. How did you figure out it was water?
#10
Posted 13 April 2011 - 01:52 PM
Glad you got it figured out! Water and dirt in tanks are the worst in any engine. At least water will work it's way out. How did you figure out it was water?
I told the seadoo dealer the only thing I could think of was bad gas. So they tested it some how and that was it. If you read my first post i was trying to get the cooler to drain while washing it. I bet every bit of that water went into the tank. You might want to post this on "What not to do when your drain is plugged." Haha. It has been there about a week now because they are draining the tank and letting it dry out. Bad part is I had a full tank and now I will have about 3-4 gallons they said.
#11
Posted 13 April 2011 - 02:13 PM
Interesting. Did a little searching on the web and came across this on sail.net
"The simplest way is to just pump out all the contents and run it through a baja filter, which you can get at most chandleries, like West Marine, which will separate the water and gasoline. Be aware that if this is gasoline that had ethanol used as an octane booster, its octane level is probably down to about 82...and not suitable for use in most engines without using some sort of canned octane booster."
It seems that E10 and high ethanol products have a tendency to attract water
http://www.fuel-test...l_problems.html
Another interesting link:
http://faq.automotiv...ine-how-to-test
Looks like we should all avoid e10, especially before winter storage.
"The simplest way is to just pump out all the contents and run it through a baja filter, which you can get at most chandleries, like West Marine, which will separate the water and gasoline. Be aware that if this is gasoline that had ethanol used as an octane booster, its octane level is probably down to about 82...and not suitable for use in most engines without using some sort of canned octane booster."
It seems that E10 and high ethanol products have a tendency to attract water
http://www.fuel-test...l_problems.html
Another interesting link:
http://faq.automotiv...ine-how-to-test
Looks like we should all avoid e10, especially before winter storage.
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