4 replies to this topic

[arboldt]

This is our second year with the Speedster 150 (215 hp SC). Last year I had a mechanic winterize it, but was planning on doing myself this year.

I have the oil, filer, O-rings, hand pump, and printed description to change the oil.
I have a copy of the shop manual for other winterizing steps.

The manual says I need to remove the air intake hose and spray lubricant for the throttle. It also says to remove the hoses from the intercooler and fill it and the manifold with antifreeze (specified amounts anyway). The hose clamp appear crimped on, not worm-gear tightened like on a car.

Question 1: For lubricating spray, can I use fogging oil or wd-40?
Question 2: How do I safely remove the hose clamps?
Question 3: Can I replace the hose clamps with a standard automotive-type hose clamp?
Question 4: Can I use regular fogging oil spray for the throttle? Or WD-40?

I'd appreciate any guidance anyone can give.

Thanks.

[Kevin Leclair]

First let me say welcome to the site. Check out this article for winterizing the Rotax engine, http://seadoosportbo...nterizing_Rotax. Keep us posted on how it goes or if you need additional help.

[arboldt]

First let me say welcome to the site. Check out this article for winterizing the Rotax engine, http://seadoosportbo...nterizing_Rotax. Keep us posted on how it goes or if you need additional help.

Thanks, Kevin. I'd previously gone to that article and printed it, using it as a guide and companion to the service manual.

One difference between that article and the service manual is the antifreeze. According to the manual, I need to put antifreeze in the intercooler. It doesn't talk about clamping hoses or anything. I assume this is due to different year / model. (or did I miss something?) Right now, our Doo has 89 hours on it. I'm figuring I should change the antifreeze next year. Does that sound ok?

Big challenge now is how to safely remove the hose clamps that look like they're crimped rather than tightened with a worm gear and screwdriver. Any suggestions?

Next biggest challenge is padding under my stomach, leaning over the rear seats almost upside down to work on things. That seems par for the course for sport boats, though (similar kind of situation with our previous jetboat, a SeaRayder).

[Kevin Leclair]

You're welcome.

I would say the differences are just because they are written by different technicians, as they say there is "more than one way to skin a cat". Yeah it would be good to change the antifreeze around 100 hours, the manual should go in more details of when exactly this should be changed.

I would imagine you could put some temporary clamps on there and just replace them with the "worm gear" style to make it easier to remove them in the future.

Yeah they definitely do not make it easy to get in there, sometimes it feels like you have to stand on your head!

[jus_crzn]

This is our second year with the Speedster 150 (215 hp SC). Last year I had a mechanic winterize it, but was planning on doing myself this year.

I have the oil, filer, O-rings, hand pump, and printed description to change the oil.
I have a copy of the shop manual for other winterizing steps.

The manual says I need to remove the air intake hose and spray lubricant for the throttle. It also says to remove the hoses from the intercooler and fill it and the manifold with antifreeze (specified amounts anyway). The hose clamp appear crimped on, not worm-gear tightened like on a car.

Question 1: For lubricating spray, can I use fogging oil or wd-40?
Question 2: How do I safely remove the hose clamps?
Question 3: Can I replace the hose clamps with a standard automotive-type hose clamp?
Question 4: Can I use regular fogging oil spray for the throttle? Or WD-40?

I'd appreciate any guidance anyone can give.

Q#1 I use rust check to fog the engine, never had an issue.
Q#2 With a small flat blade screw driver. Pry gently under the hump in the clamp. It will pop open.
Q#3 100% yes, just use stainless steel.
Q#4 I just use rust check.