Changing Jet Pump Oil
Posted 20 April 2006 - 08:27 AM
Just wondering if anyone has changed their own jet pump oil on ther boat. I was wondering if it is a very difficult procedure. Anyone know where I can find a clear concise procedure for a 1999 Challenger 1800 that explains it very well.
Posted 28 April 2006 - 10:19 AM
Changing jet pump oil:
1. Make sure the battery is off and key is out.
2. Disconnect the steering and gate cable. Screw the washer and nuts back on the cable, so you don't loose the hardware.
3. There are four bolt that hold on the steering noise and gate. 13 mm Socket with racket remove them. With dual engines. You must pull both engine gate/steering noise cone at the same time. Don't let one side hung.
Don't Bend the connection tube for the two gate. I did bent it and it took me a long time to fig out what I did wrong. If you are do one pump side only, the gate connecting tube need to be discounted.
4. Place oil pan under pump and tilt noise trailer up. Remove 3-10 mm bolt to remove the cone. Drain oil. If the is water in oil it would be a milk looking oil. If you have lots of water may it would be a good time to change the double lip seal on the impeller side of the pump.
Due to the fact that when I am change out the oil, I will pull the whole pump off to grease the drive shaft on the impeller side. They are 4-17 mm nuts that hold the pump on. Remove nuts and pull the pump out. Then I will do the oil change out on the work bench. I will remove the alan screw and drain the oil in to a measure cup. Then remove the 3- 10 mm bolts and drain in to measure cup. The oil will be 70 ml or 2.5 us oz. If not you got a leak and the double lip seal need to be change. Then I look for the water in oil or metal shavings. If you metal shaving maybe it good time to rebuild the pump. If water is in pump, With the pump up side down, dry out. The water would be out by then.
5. When oil is drain, use loctite 518 to seal the up the cone and replace mount cone with 3-10 mm bolts. Clean the measuring cup and full the cup with oil to 70 ml or 2.5 us oz. With the alan screw out start full up the cone with oil. Once full, put the Alan screw in.
6. Put grease in the impeller drive shaft end. This will keep the rust from forming in the impeller and drive shaft.
Beware on the end of the drive shaft there is a rubber button. Make sure you don't crush it when slipping the impeller on to the shaft. Remount pump to hull. The 1994-95 has a foam seal on the pump support. Some people are replace it with silicone. On 1996 and on, don't need if it use form seal pump support. Remount pump and tighten down the four 17 mm nuts.
7. Now the gate and steering cone need to be put on. On the end of the pump on the out rim of the pump where the cone venturi mounts, a bead of loctite 518 need to be put on. Remount the venturi, steering cone and gate to pump with the four 13 mm bolts. Use red loctite to the bolt and tighten down.
8. Reattach the steering and gate cable. Check the gate locking latch to make sure that no damage to it.
The aluminum latch that keeps the gate open when the F stick arm is forward. If the gate connection tube got bent, this will be affective the two gate should move freely and the latch should not hang up.
Additional Pump Oil Change details Nov 17,2003 5:22:52 PM GMT
In addition to changing the oil, I removed my impellers so I could file off a few burrs on both the impeller and the plastic vanes in the housing. Heating was key: While hot the impeller was "easy" to remove but it became impossible to turn as it cooled. Heat, wrench, heat again, remove. I also gave the innards a good cleaning but didn't disassemble the bearings.
I used Loctite medium blue thread locker (243 I think) to remount the impeller, the pump cone bolts, and I'll be using it for the venturi mounting bolts. I do not believe the extra strength of the red Loctite is needed, especially for something you take apart every year or two. Anybody disagree? Permatex anaerobic gasket maker (like Loctite 518) is used to seal the pump cone and venturi.
Synthetic oil for pump: I bought the OEM replacement oil from Red Line and that will last me a while but I also just bought some Pennzoil Synthethic 75W90 oil that was on clearance at WalMart - $2.99/qt. I'm a sucker for a bargain. Now I need 3 more boats to maintain so I can use up all the oil I have!
Questions: 1) No sealant between the pump housing and the transom, or whatever you call the hole the pump goes in? There's nothing there now, but maybe there should be? 2) Spline grease - I can't find much locally. Needs to be synthetic, waterproof, and contain teflon to be a good match for the Thermal-Lube OEM stuff. What doo folks recommend, and where can I buy it on clearance!?
I am start to use mine bearing trailer grease now. Nov 18,2003 12:40:33 AM GMT
The pump don't have seals. I got the form rubber seal that 1995 and 96 uses. It seal the pump right up. It was on $4 each. Thermal lube is just a used in food service. From what I see not thing special. I got an tube of grease with Teflon. I didn't like that type. Now I am just going to lube with Pennzoil trailer bearing grease. I can get it any place and it is thick and nasty. I will be down to one grease gun now. If you want to add something to the grease, mix in graphite. When the grease is gone the graphite will be there. At work we Vaseline and graphite for many years that why I know about it.
I haven't tried it, or found a write up, but I did find some pictures. It looks like you may be able to take out the alen screw and sciphen out the oil.
Posted 28 April 2006 - 10:20 AM
Posted 28 April 2006 - 10:21 AM
Posted 30 April 2006 - 01:54 PM
Posted 02 May 2006 - 08:45 PM
03 Speedster 240 EFI
Posted 03 May 2006 - 09:33 AM
I changed the oil as those pics indicate. It was very very easy. I've also took the pump apart before as well. The guy from the pics has instructions on jetboating.net.
I've looked all over for his write up or instructions. Do you have the link?
Posted 09 May 2006 - 08:14 PM
03 Speedster 240 EFI
Posted 09 May 2006 - 08:23 PM
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Posted 18 May 2006 - 07:09 AM
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