13 replies to this topic

[Bob86ZZ4]

Since there aren't any posts in this section and this is the one I'll be in most since I have a '96 Speedster 14'.  If there are any others with a boat using the two seperate shifter cables this post should interest you.  You may know that SeaDoo changed in '98 (I think, help me if I'm wrong) to a single shifter (and steering for that matter) cable.  I broke my left shifter cable on my boat a few years ago.  So, I looked into changing to the single cable and the service manager at my local SeaDoo shop said, "nope, can't be done, we have already asked all the SeaDoo factory people about it, sorry, you have to buy a new left shifter cable for $90.00 (US).  I wouldn't take "no" for an answer.  So, I had the parts guy look on his computer at a '98 and I ordered the stainless tube that connects the two shift gates together behind the nozzles.  I also ordered the bolts, nuts, and little spacers that were showing on the computer.  The parts total came to $34.00.  I took the tube and put it in place between the two gates, marked the holes, removed the gates and drilled the holes.  You need to also disable the little locking contraption on the left gate since there will be no cable on that side after the conversion.  Remove that left cable and plug up the hole so water doesn't get into the engine compartment.  I bought a fancy bolt in plug at a big hardware store.  Put the gates back on with the tube tying them together and it works great.  It shifts 200% better than when it was new with the two cable setup.  I hope this can help anybody else.  If anybody has one of these old 2 cable setups I would highly advise doing this conversion before you break one of those cables and get stranded.  When mine broke I was on Lake Superior about 1 hour away from our cabin.  The shifter jammed solid and wouldn't move.  I killed the motors to check it out.  Of coarse then they wouldn't start up since it wasn't in neutral.  I managed to take the shifter/throttle controls out of the hull and hotwire the little interlock switch so the computer thought the boat was in neutral.  Then I pulled up on both gates and locked them in open position.  Got home fine that way.  

Sorry this post is so long but maybe it might help somebody.

[Kevin Leclair]

Great how-to, thanks!  Hopefully this will help some people out.  

Kevin

[belmor2]

Bob,

the left cable on my 95 speedster broke.  Actually the sleeve broke, the cable inside it is still fine.  however I asked local dealer how much for a new one here in canada and almost passed out when he said $140 +tax.  Do you have pictures of what you did so that it may help me try and do something similiar here?

Thanks

[Bob86ZZ4]

My boat is up at the lake place and I'm stuck in town so I don't know when I'll be able to get to the boat to take some pictures.  I think the only thing that you need to make sure of is the spacing between the two shift gates.  If it is the same as the '96 then you should be good to go.  Maybe somebody else here can measure that distance between the two and you can see if it's the same for the '95.  The place where this stainless tube bolts to is directly over the large allen bolt/pivot point on the inner edge of the thrust gates.  You need to make sure to position the tie bar/tube directly over that point so the gates swing up and down together without binding.  If I remember correctly when you order that tube you also want to order the bolts/nuts and spacers.  There are some spacers that go between the fittings on the ends of the tube and the thrust gates.  If I remember it right they are there to keep the end of the tube from hitting that large allen bolt/pivot bolt.  Maybe somebody could take a look at their '98 Speedster and see if I'm remebering this correctly.  My kids are going to the lake this weekend so I'll send my digital camera with them and tell them to take some pictures and hope some turn out to post.  I'll have them measure the tube to.  I just found out they were going while I was typing this post.

[Bob86ZZ4]

Okay, my son measured the length of the tube to connect the reverse gates.  He said it is 14 5/8" overall, flange to flange.  He said the actual tube itself is only 14 1/4".  I'll try to post some pics he took:













The last two pictures show the locking mechanism that is on each gate.  The one on the left you need to take a small file to and grind off the little tooth that locks it up since there will be no cable there after you do this conversion.  I think the kid took some pretty good shots of this didn't he?

[belmor2]

WOW  

Great PICS.  

I am going to measure mine and see if this will work.  i will post my progress

[Bob86ZZ4]

Okay, I hope it does.  I can't imagine they changed the spacing of the engines from '95 to'96 but maybe they did.  Let me know if you have any particular questions while doing the changover.  I got that pipe, held it in position between the two gates and marked the holes and then removed the gates and drilled the holes.

[Bob86ZZ4]

Just wanted to bump this up so it shows up on the main screen.

[Kevin Leclair]

Bob86ZZ4, on Nov 18 2003, 12:06 PM, said:

Just wanted to bump this up so it shows up on the main screen.

Good deal!

Well belmor2 how are things working out for you on this?

Kevin

[belmor2]

Well,

I compared my uckets to the 96 and 98 and it seems that they may not have enough room for this mod.  

My worrie is thaat I get the parts and they don't fit.  Then I would still have to get a replacement cable.

anyway today I am going to have a closer look at it and make my decision whether to get the parts or not

If anyone has a possible solution to repair the cable sleeve please let me know.



thanks,


Bel

[tiggerman]

belmor2, on May 5 2004, 03:52 PM, said:

Well,

I compared my uckets to the 96 and 98 and it seems that they may not have enough room for this mod.  

My worrie is thaat I get the parts and they don't fit.  Then I would still have to get a replacement cable.

anyway today I am going to have a closer look at it and make my decision whether to get the parts or not

If anyone has a possible solution to repair the cable sleeve please let me know.



thanks,


Bel

The pumps on your Doo are mounted entirely differently to the boat than the '96 and up. I would say that if the distance between the mounting points are the same, and you actually have the flat places to mount the bar, then it should work. Post a photo of your buckets if you can so I can see.

[tiggerman]

Tell ya what.... If you get the parts and they don't fit, I will buy them from you for what you paid (for the parts), as long as they are still $34.00....

[Bob86ZZ4]

tiggerman, on May 5 2004, 05:13 PM, said:

Tell ya what.... If you get the parts and they don't fit, I will buy them from you for what you paid (for the parts), as long as they are still $34.00....

Sound's like a good deal to me.  I would buy the parts.  Then, if the stainless tube that goes between the two buckets is too long I would cut a section out of it to make it the correct length and take it to a welding shop and have them weld the two pieces together.  That wouldn't cost more than a few bucks to have welded.  But, if you don't want to do that then just sell them here.  You will notice a big improvement in the shifting by converting to the single cable.  Good luck.

[tiggerman]

That would work too. I've been wanting to doo this myself, but have had other irons in the fire.... If those irons ever cool, I will doo it. Good to see ya Bob! Been awhile since you posted.....