9 replies to this topic

[Kevin Leclair]

Below are the steps to winterize a Rotax engine.

Fuel Stabilizer
Insert fuel stabilizer in fuel tank. Make sure it is the right kind for your engine (2 or 4 cycle). This is especially important with ethanol blend fuel, as it will absorb water during the winter without stabilization.

Make sure you have the proper mix ratio and rock the boat to mix it with gas.

TIP: If you put in the stabilizer before your last trip of the season, it is guaranteed to be throughout the fuel system and tank.

Water Hose
Plug in the water hose in the back of the boat (not on the top because you will need to pinch some hoses to do it right). Start engine and let run for 4-5 minutes to get the stabilizer in the engine.

SEA-DOO LUBE
Use SEA-DOO LUBE (don't use something else) and spray inside the air intakes for at least 30-40 seconds. What I do is I spray the lube inside until the engine dies, then I know it's in there everywhere.

Spark Plugs
Remove spark plugs and spray SEA-DOO LUBE inside the holes. Don't be shy to use the stuff. Screw the back the plugs in but not tight. Don't forget to change them next spring.

TIP: DO NOT use the little red straw to spray inside the spark plug holes, it might fall in (BAD).

PTO
Remove the gray cover on the PTO and grease the shaft (you will see the grease fittings after you remove the gray cover). Only add enough grease that the boot starts to move/inflate a bit.

Anti-Freeze
Now for the part that I hated the most, putting in anti-freeze. I looked all over and called all over but the bottom line is you need to doo it the way the service manual says to, and that is to pinch hoses and insert the fluid from the top water line.

On my model I needed to pinch 4 hoses, that's right, 4. The hose pinchers cost 20$ US EACH! What I did is I bought vice-grips (8$US each and you can use them around the house) and also used 2" square pieces of metal you can buy at any home depot for around 25 cents each.

I put a small rag around the hose, take the vice-grip, put a piece of metal on the top and bottom, and tighten. The reason for the metal pieces is to make SURE the hose is firmly closed, if it isn't then it renders this operation useless.

Fill it with around 2 liters of 100% antifreeze (don't use 50/50 premix!), unpinch one hose, put another 6 onces, wait, then remove the vice-grips. Almost all the fluid will then come out at the bottom, but the exercise is to mix the antifreeze with whatever water was in there already so it doesn't freeze.

A service manual is a must and will be cheaper than if you get the engines winterized (and MUCH cheaper than replacing the engine due to freeze damage), so it's a definite investment. It has pictures and detailed instructions for just about everything you need. I don't want to say what hose to pinch because it's different for each model.

Misc
You also need to change the oil in the pump, but I won't describe how to do this. It's rather long, and again is different from one boat to the next.

Content Provided by: GregZ of JetBoating.net

[FJHIII]

Wow, what a PIA to have a boat in the snow.

Great instructions.

[sgoyal]

Kevin, I couldn't find Anti-freeze info in the 2011 Shop manual. May be I am looking for wrong info.

Can you please point to me the correct page?

[Kevin Leclair]

This how-to is for older model Rotax engines, if you have the 2011 shop manual and your boat is a 2011 it would be best to follow those instructions.

[sgoyal]

Thanks Kevin,

I just went though the 2011 Shop Manual Storage Procedure.

1) Propulsion System (Seems very easy)
2) Fuel System (Seems easy)
3) Exhaust System Protection (I'm thinking to perform this using Flushing connector procedure)
4) Engine Coolant replacement (Don't think I'd need it but I"ll still go thru the step)
5) Engine Internal Lube
and few other steps Battery, anticorrosion treatment.

I didn't find any Antifreeze treatment for 2011, I live in ATL and would be storing my boat under Shed but outside...

Do I've to perform Antifreeze treatment or I'm good with 2011.?

[Kevin Leclair]

Seems step 4 as you listed has this covered. Engine coolant and antifreeze are one in the same. I have also attached the operators guide for your boat in case one was not provided with it.

 2628EN.pdf   7.51MB   92 downloads

[sgoyal]

Seems step 4 as you listed has this covered. Engine coolant and antifreeze are one in the same. I have also attached the operators guide for your boat in case one was not provided with it.

 2628EN.pdf   7.51MB   92 downloads

Thanks Kevin. I feel more comfortable than yesterday. Actually, I got the book and downloaded the operating guide from sea doo few days back.

Thank you so much again...

[Jamie Abbott]

Can someone post a picture and show where the flushing connector is for the exhaust please?

[Fox]

this winter was my first time doing it myself.

i put fuel stabilizer before my last run and filled up the tank

then i brought it out and ran it for 30 seconds while reving it up to 4000 every few seconds

after that i fogged the engine, didnt put any lube on the spark plugs cuz i plan to change them when the season starts.

i used an air compressor to blow in the exhaust valve

threw a tarp over the cover

and crossed my fingers

our winters hit -40
i

[Fox]

-40 Celsius that is