radiofred

JC,
I had my dealer fix the forward creep under warranty after I bought the boat. And, yes there is an adjustment you can make. The mechanic showed me the adjuster that will lower/raise the gate. Take out the pin and turn it a bit. Insert the pin and check it out. Readjust until there is no creep in either direction. I believe there is probably some measurement/method that can be done on the gate to get it close to begin with, but I haven't seen that yet.
By the way, my dealer didn't get it perfect either.
I would like to learn more about the neutral lock on the newer boats. I figured it would just clamp/lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position so the boat didn't just spin in circles. That is always fun when hanging or removing fenders. Does it work some other way?

Dave
6/11/2012 I finally got to work on the adjustment and take some pics.
I'll post them as soon as I can eat dinner and figure out how to post pics.
I rotated mine 2 turns to the right/clockwise. I'll have to see how that works when I get it in the water. That may be a week or two.
Here are some pics -- I hope.
First one is of the whole assembly

 DSC_4537 (Large).JPG   64.94KB   163 downloads

Then the nut that has to come off in order to move the cable to get room to make the adjustment.

 DSC_4544 (Large).JPG   54.32KB   189 downloads

Next is two shots of the adjuster that is under a black cap that is held down by the cotter pin. (notice how my previous dealer used a non stainless pin.) Remove the pin and pick up the cap.

 DSC_4557 (Large).JPG   57.19KB   195 downloads  DSC_4555 (Large).JPG   57.47KB   187 downloads

Next is the adjuster while lifting the cable. This is when the adjuster gets turned on the cable.

 DSC_4545 (Large).JPG   53.17KB   144 downloads

I turned mine clockwise thinking it would move it in and thereby push the rod out which would move the diverters lower. Hopefully, that would lessen the forward push.
I'll let you know how it worked out.
Later...
Dave

Well, the 2 full turns of the adjustment worked perfectly. I start both engines and sit exactly where I am with the engines running. I was amazed I hit it perfectly.
It works as I stated.
Good luck/adjustments to all.
Post your results or questions.
Dave

AFTER A LOT OF SEARCHING IN JUNKYARDS I FOUND THAT THE 5LUG SEADOO TRAILER WHEEL HUB MATCH THE MAZDA 3 CAR WHEEL HUB EXACTLY.
YOU CAN TAKE THE SPARE WHEEL (USE WITH MAX 50MPH)AND TO USE IT AS A TRAILER SPARE WHEEL.
I HAVE MADE ALSO A SYSTEM (YOU CAN USE A WHEEL HUB WELDED TO A METAL TUBE) TO USE IT AS A THIRD TRAILER WHEEL IF YOUR 4X4 GET STUCKED IN THE SAND & WITH THIS WHEEL AND WITH A ROPE YOU CAN TOW THE TRAILER OUTSIDE OF THE SAND .
IF ANYONE LIKES THE SYSTEM I CAN GIVE MORE DETAILED PHOTOS.

I hope I never have to tow my boat but I thought I should be prepared nevertheless.

 

The owner's manual for my 2007 Challenger 180 is not very clear with respect to showing which water supply hose is the one to pinch when towing the boat. I've looked everywhere and can't find a decent picture or description of which hose it is. I have heard "it is the black hose with the green stripe".

 

I've spent some time looking at the shop manual for the boat and looking in the engine compartment, and I think I have it figured out. (I think it is the black hose with the green stripe.)

 

I'm looking for confirmation that my pictures below and my understanding of which hose to pinch are correct.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 ChallengerWaterSupplyHose-1.jpg   126.88KB   5 downloads

 ChallengerWaterSupply-2.jpg   216.21KB   4 downloads

 

 

OK so I have researched the internet forums about this cavitation or ventilation "problem" till blue in the face. I have a brand new (just broke in past the 10 hours) Challenger 180SP with supercharged H.O. 260 engine. My boat has "cavitated" with full throttle at dead stop since new. In fact, it cavitates if I go full throttle up until the craft is doing at least 10 mph. Then the sucker throws you back in your seat at full throttle. Now, I have gotten good at "feathering" the throttle from a stop to about half way for a half second, then 3/4 for another second or so, then full on, and this boat will plane within 2 seconds and be at full speed (close to 50) in under 10 seconds easy. I am very happy with the performance of this thing! However, for awhile, and especially after reading forum after forum, I thought my cavitation issue was a "problem" like everyone else said. Then I got to thinking: this cavitation issue is only on the high performance, high hp boats. And it has been an issue for over a decade now. On countless, and I mean COUNTLESS boats. Has anyone ever stopped to think that just maybe SeaDoo knows what they are doing and that cavitation at full throttle from a standstill is normal as these engines produce more and more power? I mean, why else would they KEEP producing boats with the "problem" if it is truly a "problem?" And selling them!

Now I called 3 separate dealers from two different states right after I knew my boat had full throttle from standstill cavitation, and at the time thinking it was an issue I should be concerned with. ALL 3 had the exact same answer: it is normal. In fact, two of them were kind enought to detail the reasoning: simply put, they said it is like too much power in a car -- full throttle at standstill and you just sit and spin and probably hit the rev limiter until the car gets going or unless you let off. Hmmm, sound familiar? Now I know some may think "wait a minute, how can the pump suck up ALL the lake water? Well of course, it isnt doing that. It is actually "overpowering" the water going in. With high output, at some point the impeller requires more fluid (water) then the fluid can actually flow in. This creates a void in which, you guessed it, air fills, and walah! cavitation. Some will not understand this, and think that water should flow as fast as the impeller throws it. This may be true on the output side of the impeller, but nothing is actually "pushing" the water on the intake side and so it relies on being "forced" in by the boat moving faster until this "forced" intake matches what the pump is demanding.

Simply put, when you floor it on a high powered boat, you demand more water then what is available for a little while until your boat speed starts to "shove" water into the intake. As far as the problem seemingly going away and allowing full throttle when the wheel is turned, I was explained that this is actually caused by some of the back pressure of the pump having to now push water down an angle instead of a straight through, and the back pressure allows the pump to stay full. This is evidenced by the thrust at full lock of the steering wheel at full throttle not quite being as much as going straight.

There is so much on the internet today about these boats having "problems" because you cant full throttle from a standstill. I am one who does NOT think there is a problem. I think engine output numbers have grown to a point that you simply cannot full throttle whenever you want anymore, just like a car with a powerful motor. And I actually think having TOO much power is a "problem" I am proud of! As long as you know how to control it, these boats are some of the highest performing boats the general public can buy!