11 replies to this topic

[doojim]

just got a 1996 speedster, fuel guage was stuck below empty, replaced baffle (which hand tested perfect for range when plugged in) now after installation only shows a little over half when tank is full, also oil warning l.e.d. comes on when turning hard then shuts off when straight and i have a nearly full oil tank. is this normal or am i doing damage to the motor ?

[tiggerman]

just got a 1996 speedster, fuel guage was stuck below empty, replaced baffle (which hand tested perfect for range when plugged in) now after installation only shows a little over half when tank is full, also oil warning l.e.d. comes on when turning hard then shuts off when straight and i have a nearly full oil tank. is this normal or am i doing damage to the motor ?

Either the gauge is faulty, or the float on the sender is bad (gas-soaked, magnet fell off, etc..). Did I read correctly you replaced the sender? Did you measure with an ohmeter? I believe the service manual has the correct resistance values you should see if manually checking the sender.

The oil warning light is simply connected to another float on a sender in the oil tank, and tells you when you are low on injection oil. It has nothing to do with whether or not your engines are actually oiling. The float on that one is styrofoam, and is probably "crudded" up and stuck at a level where when you do turn hard, it "thinks" you are low on oil. My lamp always came on doing that, even with half a tank of injection oil. The sender is mounted in the bottom of the tank, off to one side, and can hardly be reliable. I never relied on the oil lamp, I always visually checked the oil level every trip. You should be fine.

[rickster]

just got a 1996 speedster, fuel guage was stuck below empty, replaced baffle (which hand tested perfect for range when plugged in) now after installation only shows a little over half when tank is full, also oil warning l.e.d. comes on when turning hard then shuts off when straight and i have a nearly full oil tank. is this normal or am i doing damage to the motor ?

My Utopia 205 gauge always has the red lamp on, regardless if its full of oil and gas. Dealer says they will replace it, but haven't gotten around to it!!!

They saidd engine working just fine, oil getting were its supposed to!

[doojim]

just got a 1996 speedster, fuel guage was stuck below empty, replaced baffle (which hand tested perfect for range when plugged in) now after installation only shows a little over half when tank is full, also oil warning l.e.d. comes on when turning hard then shuts off when straight and i have a nearly full oil tank. is this normal or am i doing damage to the motor ?

Either the gauge is faulty, or the float on the sender is bad (gas-soaked, magnet fell off, etc..). Did I read correctly you replaced the sender? Did you measure with an ohmeter? I believe the service manual has the correct resistance values you should see if manually checking the sender.

The oil warning light is simply connected to another float on a sender in the oil tank, and tells you when you are low on injection oil. It has nothing to do with whether or not your engines are actually oiling. The float on that one is styrofoam, and is probably "crudded" up and stuck at a level where when you do turn hard, it "thinks" you are low on oil. My lamp always came on doing that, even with half a tank of injection oil. The sender is mounted in the bottom of the tank, off to one side, and can hardly be reliable. I never relied on the oil lamp, I always visually checked the oil level every trip. You should be fine.

yes, i replaced the baffle/sending unit, i plugged it in and tipped it tover in my hands and watched the guage go from empty to full, but when i installed it, the guage would only go half way between half and three quarter, it's almost as if the sender is a different length internally than the stock one.

thanks for the confidence on the oil l.e.d., at least i can go back to scaring people on turns, with confidence!

i'm also considering the "smart tab" fixed trim tab product, any input? will i lose top speed ?? will i have to move the speedometer sender plate ?

[tiggerman]

i'm also considering the "smart tab" fixed trim tab product, any input? will i lose top speed ?? will i have to move the speedometer sender plate ?

A single tab, between the pumps may be more to your benefit than dual tabs.
I can't think of any reason top speed would come down, as really you are decreasing "wetted" hull surface with the tab, thereby decreasing drag. If you doo go with two tabs, you will definately loose whatever reverse you have, since the tabs will deflect the reverse stream aft, causing the boat to move forward. And, yes, you would have to come up with another place to put your speedo wheel with the 2 tab setup. Another poster has the single tab setup, although not the smart tab. He has had good results with it.

[doojim]

i'm also considering the "smart tab" fixed trim tab product, any input?  will i lose top speed ??  will i have to move the speedometer sender plate ?

A single tab, between the pumps may be more to your benefit than dual tabs.
I can't think of any reason top speed would come down, as really you are decreasing "wetted" hull surface with the tab, thereby decreasing drag. If you doo go with two tabs, you will definately loose whatever reverse you have, since the tabs will deflect the reverse stream aft, causing the boat to move forward. And, yes, you would have to come up with another place to put your speedo wheel with the 2 tab setup. Another poster has the single tab setup, although not the smart tab. He has had good results with it.

who is the manufacturer of the single fixed trim tab ??

[Robmoo]

i'm also considering the "smart tab" fixed trim tab product, any input?  will i lose top speed ??   will i have to move the speedometer sender plate ?

A single tab, between the pumps may be more to your benefit than dual tabs.
I can't think of any reason top speed would come down, as really you are decreasing "wetted" hull surface with the tab, thereby decreasing drag. If you doo go with two tabs, you will definately loose whatever reverse you have, since the tabs will deflect the reverse stream aft, causing the boat to move forward. And, yes, you would have to come up with another place to put your speedo wheel with the 2 tab setup. Another poster has the single tab setup, although not the smart tab. He has had good results with it.

who is the manufacturer of the single fixed trim tab ??

I just bought a single Lectrotab and installed it in the center. If I had to doo it again I wouldn't bother with the trim indicator. I bought the 12" 9" tab. When the tabs trailing edge is 3/4" down there is a sweet spot. Deploying the tab any further creates a big noticable increase in drag. The tab makes the boat usable on windy days.

[Steve-O]

Hi,how difficult was it to re&re the float etc. for the gas gauge. Mine is shot as well (96 Speedster). So I am just wondering if it is worth the hassle to replace it or just go without. And my oil light goes on in hard turns as well, usually when the oil is less than 1/3 in the tank though.

Thanks.

[Robmoo]

Hi,how difficult was it to re&re the float etc. for the gas gauge. Mine is shot as well (96 Speedster). So I am just wondering if it is worth the hassle to replace it or just go without. And my oil light goes on in hard turns as well, usually when the oil is less than 1/3 in the tank though.

Thanks.

I'd say that is just to be expected for your oil gauge to go off when making hard turns with only 1/3 a tank of oil. With only 1/3 a tank the oil is going to occasionally slosh so the float dips down low enough for the light to go on.

[doojim]

Hi,how difficult was it to re&re the float etc. for the gas gauge. Mine is shot as well (96 Speedster). So I am just wondering if it is worth the hassle to replace it or just go without. And my oil light goes on in hard turns as well, usually when the oil is less than 1/3 in the tank though.

Thanks.

I'd say that is just to be expected for your oil gauge to go off when making hard turns with only 1/3 a tank of oil. With only 1/3 a tank the oil is going to occasionally slosh so the float dips down low enough for the light to go on.

The float was VERY EASY, it took about 15 minutes !! (just be ready to hang over the back seat upside down to work on it). You must mark the 4 return hoses with numbered masking tape as you take them off, they appear to be specific to each hose location. Again, it's very simple to replace. I also recommend plugging the new sending unit (baffle) in, in your hand, turn the ignition on, and tip it over while watching the guage to see it move and reassure your efforts. Don't forget to kill the ignition before istallation.

[Bob86ZZ4]

Good questions. I hope somebody has some help here. My fuel guage hasn't worked for a couple years. I've been too lazy to try to fix it. Mine just stays down at the empty end, no matter what. I figured it would be something with the wiring behind the guage but you make it sound like it might be the sender in the tank. Hhhmmmmm. I think the dealer has some way to check the oil delivery system too. I don't think the low oil light has any way to make sure that the engine is getting enough oiling. I would guess the low oil light is just some sort of tank sensor.

[tiggerman]

Good questions. I hope somebody has some help here. My fuel guage hasn't worked for a couple years. I've been too lazy to try to fix it. Mine just stays down at the empty end, no matter what. I figured it would be something with the wiring behind the guage but you make it sound like it might be the sender in the tank. Hhhmmmmm. I think the dealer has some way to check the oil delivery system too. I don't think the low oil light has any way to make sure that the engine is getting enough oiling. I would guess the low oil light is just some sort of tank sensor.

There is a "fuse" on the circuit board of your sender- that you really can't get to without major surgery of the sender......but it can b done.