
Start of season mods
#1
Posted 23 April 2005 - 04:53 PM
I pulled the water pumps and my right water pump had water inside instead of oil. The cone had not been reinserted properly when the oil was changed last. I tried to remove the impeller to mount my Skat Trak impeller and the thing was nearly completed seized to the water pump shaft. How this could happen without the bearing seizing I'm not quite sure. Cowtown Power Sports has the water pump. They said maybe in 10 days they'd get around to taking the impeller off. The impeller still seems to turn easily on the bearings. What part are likely damaged and should I go OEM from Cowtown or can I find them for much less over the net? If they charge me $50+ for labor just to get the impeller off would it cost much more than the labor and parts I'm likely to have to replace to just replace the water pump?
I've filled in the groove on my drive shafts with JB weld. So the drive shaft carrier retrofit should go fairly easily. The carbon bushing on that right engine was in no way sealing. So, I should see much improved performance when I'm finally done.
Thank inadvance for any advice! And thanks for all the info on the retrofit!
Rob
#2
Posted 23 April 2005 - 06:48 PM
Did you have the impeller removal tool to get the impeller off the shaft? They are usually on the impeller shaft really tight (loctite is used), and heat may be needed to break them loose. Water in the pump may have caused pitting on the bearing races/impeller shaft, especially if it was salt water and stayed in there all winter. If it was fresh water, you may be OK. You say that the pumps still turn easily- if quiet they could be fine.If you are replacing the impellers, the pumps are almost disassembled anyway, and you could go ahead with new bearings and seals. If the pumps still have the original bearings,, this would be the thing to do. You really don't want to replace the entire pump unless something is wrong with the housing, as this can be expensive.I finally got time to start the mods I wanted to doo for this season.
I pulled the water pumps and my right water pump had water inside instead of oil. The cone had not been reinserted properly when the oil was changed last. I tried to remove the impeller to mount my Skat Trak impeller and the thing was nearly completed seized to the water pump shaft. How this could happen without the bearing seizing I'm not quite sure. Cowtown Power Sports has the water pump. They said maybe in 10 days they'd get around to taking the impeller off. The impeller still seems to turn easily on the bearings. What part are likely damaged and should I go OEM from Cowtown or can I find them for much less over the net? If they charge me $50+ for labor just to get the impeller off would it cost much more than the labor and parts I'm likely to have to replace to just replace the water pump?
I've filled in the groove on my drive shafts with JB weld. So the drive shaft carrier retrofit should go fairly easily. The carbon bushing on that right engine was in no way sealing. So, I should see much improved performance when I'm finally done.
Thank inadvance for any advice! And thanks for all the info on the retrofit!
Rob
Which Skats did you get?
The only mods I'm trying to do this season is modify the model of Speedster sitting in my yard......
#3
Posted 23 April 2005 - 08:34 PM
We have found that sources other than our local dealers are cheaper even after shipping. Some sources are:should I go OEM from Cowtown or can I find them for much less over the net?
www.parkeryamaha.com
www.denniskirk.com
www.worldofpowersports.com
In most cases they beat our dealers hands down.
#4
Posted 24 April 2005 - 09:55 AM
Pete
#5
Posted 24 April 2005 - 10:20 AM
#6
Posted 24 April 2005 - 02:35 PM
Those are the ones! I have them too....did you get the nose boots to install where the driveshaft goes in the front of the impellers? They should have come with them. The stock boot is different from the one that fits the Skats.I bought the 14.5/22.5 swirls. I bought them from Impros. They should reduce or eliminate cavitation and give me a faster low end and mid range accelleration. My top end speed will remain about the same.
#7
Posted 30 April 2005 - 10:18 PM
Yes, I got the Skat nose boots.Those are the ones! I have them too....did you get the nose boots to install where the driveshaft goes in the front of the impellers? They should have come with them. The stock boot is different from the one that fits the Skats.I bought the 14.5/22.5 swirls. I bought them from Impros. They should reduce or eliminate cavitation and give me a faster low end and mid range accelleration. My top end speed will remain about the same.
The people at Cowtown Power Sports got the old impeller off. Getting the new one on was hell. I'll have to replace the drive shaft in my right waterpump the next time I need to pull it apart. I'll likely have to have the treads on the impeller repaired as well. No big. I won't be pulling that impeller off unless it gets dinged up and needs some work.
I finished replacing the impellers, doing the driveshaft carrier retrofit, and putting everything back together. All I have to do is wire up my trim tab and install my keel guard and I'm ready for a season of fun!
#8
Posted 02 May 2005 - 08:59 AM
#9
Posted 02 May 2005 - 01:53 PM
#10
Posted 02 May 2005 - 02:19 PM
I have thought about the bimini as well, if I end up keeping my '97. The guides haven't been an issue since I can open the rear hatch of the Xterra and see everything. Did you go aftermarket on your bimini?My mod is much simpler. Got a bimini for it and also fab the two boat guides for the trailer since it was difficult to see the empty trailer as I back down the launch ramp.
#11
Posted 02 May 2005 - 08:29 PM
I added a bimini last month. I went after market. The thing is 6' long so it is half as long as the boat! It was difficult to find a bimini that is wide enough. I added 2 2' slide rails to mount it. I can move the shade from the front to the rear or slide it out of the way when the top is down. That is the only way to go IMHO. The OEM screws to hold the top onto the rails didn't go through far enough to lock the bimini down. So I made a couple of screws with a handles so I can lock the bimini in position on the rails.I have thought about the bimini as well, if I end up keeping my '97. The guides haven't been an issue since I can open the rear hatch of the Xterra and see everything. Did you go aftermarket on your bimini?My mod is much simpler. Got a bimini for it and also fab the two boat guides for the trailer since it was difficult to see the empty trailer as I back down the launch ramp.
#12
Posted 03 May 2005 - 08:13 AM

#13
Posted 03 May 2005 - 01:51 PM
If you're outside CA, no sales tax, so that would even be cheaper.
I haven't install it yet, been too lazy! Hoping to install it somtimes this week.
The launch ramp here has a hump and makes me lose sight of the trailer for a second, even with the gate opened on our van (haven't use our new truck this year yet), I get a little nervous when that happens so I decided to get some metal tubings and PVC pipes to make the guides for the trailer. Plus it will help me center the boat better when retreiving it.
#14
Posted 03 May 2005 - 02:36 PM
What measurements did you use for your bimini, or did you get the semi-custom job they list?
#15
Posted 03 May 2005 - 03:20 PM
36" high
54" wide. I think I should have ordered it wider, may be 60", we'll see once installed.
5' long
I measured the boat but they don’t have my boat listed (only '97 on) so I ordered the next closest thing to what was available.
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