Opinions on winterizing 2012 Challenger 180 SP
Posted 19 September 2012 - 11:32 PM
I have posted a couple of times regarding this topic but nobody is responding to any of the posts. To those who have boats with engines that have the closed cooling systems (antifreeze cooling similar to cars) but have intercoolers and exhaust cooling using lake water (I have the 260 SCIC), I have a question: my dealer said that winterizing these new boats is 3 simple steps -- 1)pour in a can of SeaFoam or some other fuel stabilyzer during your last run of the season, 2)once out of water and on trailer, idle the engine for approx 30 seconds, blipping the throttle a few times to expel water from the seawater cooling systems (he said water that doesnt get shot out will evaporate from the high heat in the system), and 3) take it home and put the battery on a trickle charger. DONE!
Now he said some folks in higher humidity/rust-prone parts of the country may remove fuel rail and squirt some lube in the cylinders, but it isnt necessary. I just start the motor every other month or so during winter and keep things lubed and he said that is just fine.
Thought it seemed too easy (I am used to sterndrive V8 I/O boats and the winterizing procedure for those was so in depth I usually paid $250 to a mechanic to winterize it) so I called another dealer who said that method is just fine as well!
Anyone think this is incorrect? Anyone think it still leaves enough water in the system to actually crack or damage components when it freezes? Our winters get to 20 below, but both dealerships I spoke to are in this same climate.
I keep seeing posts where guys are spending an entire day removing hoses, intercoolers, using compressed air, pumping antifreeze through the system, etc., and I just cant believe the winterizing methods can be that far apart and different!
Posted 21 September 2012 - 10:58 AM
Posted 23 September 2012 - 04:52 PM
So not one of the 72 people that have viewed this winterize their own boat?
I will be winterizing my boat in a few weeks. We still have some 80 degree days left so I am holding out for a few more good weekends. This will be my first winter with this boat or any closed loop system boat. I will not be doing all of the antifreeze stuff or blowing air through. I will be starting it up and revving the water out in short intervals. That is all I ever did with multiple jet skis over the years so I am not too worried about doing that with my boat.
2005 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LLY Duramax
1975 Chevy K5 Blazer SB400
2008 Polaris Outlaw 525 built for sand
2011 Yamaha FZ8
2011 Sea-Doo 180 Challenger SE
Posted 23 September 2012 - 08:32 PM
Posted 24 September 2012 - 10:48 AM
The manual also says the exhaust manifold is self draining, but it does suggest pushing compressed air in the flush port to clear the water in the rest of the exhaust system. I simply bought a 5ft length of tube at the hardware store, attached it to the nipple on the flush adaptor I have, and attached the other end of the tire inflator at the gas station. I think the manual suggests something like 50 psi. Not having any idea the pressure the gas station compressor provided I just repeatedly sprayed quick bursts of air until no more water came out. And this is after running it out of the water for a few seconds, there was still water in the exhaust system.
For the intercooler, the manual did say to remove it from the boat to drain it. I went ahead and did this as the last thing I did. It was a bit of a pain removing the intake hoses but not that bad, just hard a little hard to reach in the 150. When I drained the intercooler, very little water came out, maybe an ounce or 2. I don't know if this is expected, or if the compressed air cleared it or the orientation of the intercooler in the 150 allows for better drainage, but that's what I found.
I now have a Challenger 210 with 2 x 310's (naturally aspirated). Last winter I just fogged the engines and blew some compressed air through the flush port and that worked great. No problems.
I think the 215 engines where the intercooler is embedded in the intake manifold is where pumping antifreeze into the system may have been born. Actually, the manual may suggested this procedure for that particular engine but I don't remember. I don't think a simple draining procedure is possible for that setup.
I think the biggest take home message though is that any water remaining in any part of these engines is likely in large cavities or spaces where expansion from freezing is not likely to do any damage like it would in the water jacket of an engine block.
Hope this helps.
Posted 25 September 2012 - 11:41 PM
I am wondering if the dealer advice is sound. Obviously they sell a lot of these boats, and are telling everyone the same thing, and if there have not been problems then it must be OK. Bottom line though is that I think Geoff hit the nail on the head with the last paragraph about any remaining water not being enough to cause problems in the pretty open system....
Posted 26 September 2012 - 08:36 AM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 07:13 PM
I think there is a fine line on how long to run em out of water when it comes to wanting to benefit from expelling most of the water, and going too long and burning up the drive seal and/or exhaust components. Dealer actually said not much longer than a minute, but that 30 seconds should do it. That is what I did this year (first season with it) so we will see.
I am just thrilled at the ease of winterizing this awesome boat. Not only does it outperform ANY of the other 6 sterndrives I have owned over the years, but it is easier to put away for the winter than my lawnmower! Just cant get over it. Winterizng my other boats was such a big deal (and expensive when I paid a shop to do it).
Posted 27 September 2012 - 12:27 AM
I used to pump antifreeze but last year I did the compressed air trick. Since my air compressor was small I only have 100 PSI of air for a few seconds, so I repeated it many times.
My location freezes to -10 *C and has many many days above/below the freezing mark and my boat was just fine.
These year I have a 255 C180SE and things are a bit different and harder to get to. I was also thinking of just dropping by the tire store and trying to blow out the engine with more air.
I'm not too keen on removing the IC. That part seems really over kill.
I fog through the injectors. It seems easier than fogging through the plugs.
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