9 replies to this topic

[robbiev]

Need some help finding where to grease my impeller shaft. I have an 04 sportster 4-tech. I know it is under a boot at the rear of the engine but, don't want to remove anything I dont need to. Need a good description of where the zerk fitting is and how much grease. Pictures would be awsome.

[tiggerman]

Need some help finding where to grease my impeller shaft.  I have an 04 sportster 4-tech.  I know it is under a boot at the rear of the engine but, don't want to remove anything I dont need to.  Need a good description of where the zerk fitting is and how much grease.  Pictures would be awsome.

I'm not quite sure it even has a zerk for greasing, unlike my '97, which does have a zerk for greasing the PTO end of the shaft. For the pump end, you remove the pump and apply grease manually. There are pictures on sea-doo.net of the 4 TEC and I believe that one of these may show you the boot you are talking about. I don't see a fitting, but I do see a boot at the rear of the engine- there is a clamp around it but no zerk. The boot is on the left and below the thermostat housing. The older boats had an external PTO flywheel, this one doesn't. So, it looks like to grease the PTO end, the driveshaft has to come out.
Picture Copyright 2004 Perry Performance Group, Inc.

Attached Files

•  3.jpg   325.41KB   35 downloads

[nookie201]

Here's the splines exposed on my 4-tec, no lube on these will cause the rattling.

Attached Files

•  1.JPG   278.81KB   49 downloads

[nookie201]

And here's the rubber boot,
This boot keeps unseating and slowly rides approx 1/2 - 1 inch up the propeller shaft.
This causes the grease to fly out and then causes an annoying rattle.

Attached Files

•  2.JPG   219.91KB   27 downloads

[nookie201]

Splined shaft.

Removal of the whole deal takes approx 20 minutes.
I used silcone and a tie-wrap in front of the boot to prevent it from flying off.
This is a small design issue, since the boot will never stay on it was designed.

The tie wrap I put around the shaft, in front of the boot (through the inlet grate)
Small hands preferred....

-Gab

Attached Files

•  108_0849.JPG   1.66MB   42 downloads

[tiggerman]

Splined shaft.

Removal of the whole deal takes approx 20 minutes.
I used silcone and a tie-wrap in front of the boot to prevent it from flying off.
This is a small design issue, since the boot will never stay on it was designed.

-Gab

The earlier model boats had a round plastic ring that sat on top of the rubber boot, and backed up to a flange on the driveshaft- keeping the boot in place. The plastic also protected the rubber from tearing if something got wrapped around the shaft at that point. I guess the design changed completely if there is no provision to hold the boot in place, nor protect it.

[robbiev]

Here's the splines exposed on my 4-tec, no lube on these will cause the rattling.

I need to remove the whole unit from the rear of the boat, looks like four bolts and some linkages for reverse and seearing. How often should this be done?

[robbiev]

Splined shaft.

Removal of the whole deal takes approx 20 minutes.
I used silcone and a tie-wrap in front of the boot to prevent it from flying off.
This is a small design issue, since the boot will never stay on it was designed.

The tie wrap I put around the shaft, in front of the boot (through the inlet grate)
Small hands preferred....

-Gab

did the silicone and tiewrap (is this same as zip tie?) work to keep boot snug? Have you tested it, how long has it been on?

[tiggerman]

Here's the splines exposed on my 4-tec, no lube on these will cause the rattling.

I need to remove the whole unit from the rear of the boat, looks like four bolts and some linkages for reverse and seearing. How often should this be done?

A post I found somewhere said this was to be done every 50 hours. It should say so in the owners manual.

[nookie201]

I put 3M marine silicone around the base of the boot, the part that seats in the pump.

The tie-wrap just in front of the boot after the pump is back on.

The shaft is slightly tapered thicker towards the motor, so the tie-wrap cannot ride up the shaft, it sits very snug in front of the boot.
I think it's been there for approx 10 hrs or so, and it's all still there.

I think the maintenance manual says 50hrs for re-lubrication.

I've not seen a 2005 model, but I figure they have a different boot now, problably longer. if not someone's sleeping at BRP.

Make very sure all 3 "O" rings go back on, 2 for the venturi vacuum which I think is not used on the sportster (Looped inside boat) and more importantly 1 exhaust water cooler hole.

Just handle the pump with care, the rear end is held together with only some red goop and can separate from pump, not a big deal just don't let it fall off.

-Gab