4 replies to this topic

[navstud]

I have had my 1996 for almost a year now and I have never changed the pump oil. I'm not sure how to do it but it doesn't seem like it could be that difficult. I talked to the local boat store and they said they would do it for about $85 for both engines. Just wondering if this is a good deal.

I have another question about the awful cavitation problem. Could I buy new carbon rings and eliminate the cavitation? How long would it work. I didn't buy my doo brand new , but I can't imagine that they cavitated right off the showroom floor. If changing the carbon rings would work, how hard is it? Would I have to change the stainless rings too?

I'm just wanting to get her running in top shape for this year. I'm going to be boating in the MIssouri River and I don't need any problems with the constant 12 knot water flow. (not good if you lose power)

Thanks much,
steve
Omaha, NE

[tiggerman]

Changing the pump oil involves removing the steering nozzles from each pump, removing the pump cone, inspecting the oil that came out of the pump, replacing an o ring if the oil was nice and black (and stinky), removing a filler screw and refilling the pump with approx. 100cc of fresh oil. If you have a service manual handy, the process is clearly outlined. If not, I would consider getting one either from your dealer, or off eBay. The service is certainly not worth $85 dollars to me, but to the dealer, maybe. It isn't difficult. The oil that you drain out should be as described as above. If it is "milky", then water has entered either through the pump shaft seal, or the the filler screw in the cone, or the cone seal itself. It should be free of metal, and stink to high heaven.
The oil is cheap depending on where you get it.

To answer your cavitation question, yes. New carbon rings AND "accordian" hoses would most likely help and/or fix your cavitation problem. This is the main point in the driveline where air may be sucked in and cause a dramatic decrease in pump performance. You would most likely not have to replace the stainless floating rings. This procedure isn't difficult either, but the pumps have to be removed, as well as each driveshaft to complete this project. Once again, this is outlined in the manual. Other things can and will cause cavitation, and should be inspected too.
There are other alternatives to the carbon ring setup, but that is a whole different story in itself, and is a project best left to the winter months..

[navstud]

Where do you think the best place to get those carbon rings would be? I found some online for about $30 a piece. Is that good? Another question. What are the best batteries to get for the doo's? I still have the two small ones. I went through four batteries last year. I have since bought a battery tender trickle charger. So, hopefully, I won't have the same problem this year. Just wondering what you used. I would also like to get a battery just for my stereo. Is there any way to have the engine charge it but now draw power from it?

thanks

steve

[tiggerman]

www.worldofpowersports.com will have them. They really aren't a cheap part- after all, look what they go through when you're out doo'in it.
As for batteries, Interstate Optima (blue top) seem to hold up the best.
http://www.ibsa.com/estore/default.asp for a dealer near you. The last one I bought was around $141 US... You should have 2 anyway on the '96. With 2 of these, I wouldn't worry about a third for a stereo. The blue tops weigh in at about 40 pounds each. I use these with mobile computer carts at work, and can get about 9 hours out of each cart (LCD monitor, computer, barcode scanner, printer).
But, if you wanted to add a third, you could and use an isolator to do what you want with the charging/running.

[navstud]

Thanks a lot. When I get the parts I'm sure I'll have more questions. It will probably be in a month or so, I have to move in a couple weeks. I'll actually have a real garage to work in. No more apartment...YEAH!

steve