5 replies to this topic

[Bob86ZZ4]

I did the search and could only find one thread about this. Said a group 24 battery should fit in fine where the two 16 batteries normally sit. Cut the center dividers from the original battery trays and the 24 should fit in fine. Can even use the original rubber straps to hold it down. Hook up the two original red wires to the new single positive. It seems several years ago I remember a thread about having to remove the oil tank to get the battery in. Do I? I'm tired of having those little expensive jet ski batteries wear out every few years and costing way more than they should. I bought a sealed 24 marine starter battery and am going to the lake tomorrow night to try to install it. Thanks for any advice.

[Kevin Leclair]

Was this the post you found, http://seadoosportbo...rsion-t238.html? It has a nice how-to here, http://www.angelfire...conversion.html.

[Bob86ZZ4]

Thanks Kevin, I couldn't find that one but that's the one I remember reading I think. I'm on my way to the lake to do it now.

[Kevin Leclair]

Good deal, let us know how it turns out.

[Bob86ZZ4]

Got done. It worked pretty well. I bought a group 24 marine cranking battery at Walmart for $60. I got my oil tank out fairly easy. Did manage to spill a bunch of oil tho, used a bunch of rags to sop that up. I just took off the three nuts holding the tank to the wall. Then I loosened the clamp on the top of the filler neck tube under the filler opening. That clamp was a bear to get back on tho. I also unplugged the electrical connection that is attached to something on the right side top of the tank. I think that might be the level switch or something. Then I managed to manuever the tank out and over toward the right side of the boat without removing the two tubes from the bottom of the tank. I broke out the two walls of the original battery trays where they crossed near each other. This made it one big tray. I took the rubber bottom things that the original batteries sat in and cut one side off one of them. Then the other one I cut down the corner on one side. That allows that side to lay flat over the broken off portion of the original trays. Then the new battery sits on top of those rubber pieces. I laced the original rubber straps together and didn't have to zip tie them. I drilled the holes in the original battery terminals slightly larger so they would fit on the new battery studs. Bolted them down. Put it back together. Works great. The new battery has something like 700 cold cranking amps. The original ones were each 275. It cranks over nice now. I usually take the battery out of the boats in the winter since they are stored in an un heated garage in Wisconsin. I think it's going to be too much trouble to take it out for winter. I think I'll just keep a maintainer/float charger on it. Not a trickle charger, those can cook the battery.

[Kevin Leclair]

Thanks for the update, glad you were able to get it done! Post some pics of this finished install if you get a chance.