Impeller wear ring replacement - how, and how long
#1
Posted 03 June 2004 - 01:45 PM
I want to replace the wear rings on my '97 speedster...
Wondering if someone can give me a quick run down of how to do it, and what all I would need (I really hate going to the parts house in the middle of a job).
I have a service manual, but I find that real world experiences are much easier to follow.
I read about how Tiggerman did it by using the freezer, and I think that it is a great idea....
What all needs to be done when mounting the pump back to the boat? Gaskets? Where all do you put the RTV silicone sealant? Can I get the RTV at any auto parts store? What kind should I use exactly?
Sorry for all the questions.... I just hate to jump into something like this and realize that I didn't do enough research.
#2
Posted 03 June 2004 - 02:12 PM
All you need to do it that way is a basic metric toolset, a hammer, and something to drive the ring out. I used a very long Snap-On screwdriver to do that. While you have it down, make sure the pumps spin freely and with no snugness in the bearings. Pop off the cone and change the oil too. Either get some Seadoo pump oil, or use a synthetic 75W90 gear oil. If the oil is black and smelly, it has no water in it and you're good to go.
If you happen to find a bad bearing in the pump, you're gonna need the tool to remove the impeller. Each pump has 3 bearings and two seals. Follow the manual on this one.
Chemicals needed: if you have to replace pump bearings, you need red loctite.
You need blue loctite to seal the oil plug in the pump cone. You need a good marine grease to put in the impeller splines before you put the pump back on.
Mounting the pump back to the boat: I have found something better than RTV silicone for that. 3/8"x3/16" closed cell neoprene self-adhesive weatherstrip, available from your local home improvement center. It seals the pump much better, and is not nearly as hard to get off if you have to remove it. It is also the same material Seadoo used in their seal for this purpose. You don't need the RTV if you get this.
I can't think of anything else....If you get stuck or have any more questions, I'm here all the time.
#3
Posted 03 June 2004 - 02:25 PM
Where exactly is this pump oil? Can I see it before removing the pump?Pop off the cone and change the oil too. Either get some Seadoo pump oil, or use a synthetic 75W90 gear oil. If the oil is black and smelly, it has no water in it and you're good to go.
How exactly do you place the weatherstriping? Do you just use 1 single peice and basically make it circle the hole? I'm having trouble getting a mental picture because I haven't taken it apart yet...
Also, what exactly has to be done to remove the pump? Will I have to pull the reverse gate off?
Is it possible to screw up the alignment when reconnecting the steering? I'm gonna take a close look at this all tonight, but I always like to know what to look for before hand.....
#4
Posted 03 June 2004 - 02:28 PM
Sorry, one more question.Where exactly is this pump oil? Can I see it before removing the pump?Pop off the cone and change the oil too. Either get some Seadoo pump oil, or use a synthetic 75W90 gear oil. If the oil is black and smelly, it has no water in it and you're good to go.
How exactly do you place the weatherstriping? Do you just use 1 single peice and basically make it circle the hole? I'm having trouble getting a mental picture because I haven't taken it apart yet...
Also, what exactly has to be done to remove the pump? Will I have to pull the reverse gate off?
Is it possible to screw up the alignment when reconnecting the steering? I'm gonna take a close look at this all tonight, but I always like to know what to look for before hand.....
The only part that has to be ordered online is the actual ring, right? Everything else can be found at the parts house or Home Depot, right?
FYI, I'm fairly mechanically inclined... work on my '88 Suzuki Samurai all the time... but it's always an adventure the first time I have repair something new....
#5
Posted 03 June 2004 - 03:04 PM
The weather stripping is easy. With the pump off, look straight at the cavity where the pump sits. There is an area all the way around the hole about 3/4" wide, facing you. That's where you stick the stripping. Go all the way around, and cut it so it butts against itself.
To remove the pump, there are 4 17mm nuts with washer you remove. You also disconnect the steering control cable on the right pump, and the shifter cables from each reverse bucket. There is a tie rod between the two nozzles also. take it off. You won't screw up the alignment at all.
Lastly, if it happens that you ever have to replace the bearings or seals in the pump, get them from Seadoo. You can get aftermarket parts, but I haven't used any yet and don't know how well they work. I know part numbers, so here they are. INA SCE1416 is the bearing that the impeller shaft rides on. 2 per pump. You can also use a Torrington J1412 bearing.
The seals can be replaced with Chicago Rawhide CR8665. 2 per pump. There is one other bearing, a thrust bearing in each pump, but I don't know of an aftermarket replacement. I would stick with the OEM parts from Seadoo. Keep in mind that you likely will not need these parts, unless you just want to replace them while you have it down. You will have to remove the impeller to do this, and it takes a special tool. All parts: bearings, seals, wear rings, and the tool can be obtained from Seadoo. World of PowerSports or Parker Yamaha carry all of it. Your local auto parts store can get the bearings and seals I speak of, not the wear ring. Good luck, if you have any more questions, PM me.
#6
Posted 09 June 2004 - 09:28 AM
#7
Posted 09 June 2004 - 03:45 PM
It's raining like crazy today, but hopefully I'll get to try out the new rings this weekend... I sure hope that it makes a difference.
Thanks again for all the help.
- Steve
#8
Posted 10 November 2004 - 10:15 AM
#9
Posted 17 November 2004 - 12:05 PM
They were easy for me to get out by driving them out, as described in one of my other posts here. That's not the way everyone else everywhere else describes doing it, but it was easier than taking the impellers out and cutting the old ring. The freezer method made the new rings drop right back in the pump (freezing contracts the ring). once installed and warmed back up, they fit nice and tight.
#10
Posted 08 May 2011 - 08:41 PM
However... In my adventure I found more problems that I didn't know about. Who ever worked on my boat before hand didn't replace the impeller boot and my carbon ring was TOAST! so I'll be waiting a few days for parts so I can finish the job.
Also, I found a "RAVE" valve that had broken off in the cylinder. After inspection I have found everything to be still within tolerances. Are broken RAVE valves normal? What are the symptoms of valves going bad and what should I gain when I replace it?
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