continuous beeps
#1
Posted 19 June 2008 - 07:00 PM
can anybody help me out with why I'm getting continuous beeps? the manual says engine is overheating, and gives me the reasons. It says wrong type of fuel or oil, but that can't be it, i'm using the fuel I had in it last week. It also says that the coolant system is clogged and to flush it with a garden hose. Is this the same as flushing the engines once I'm out of the water? And it also says clogged jet pump water intake and to clean. Any tips on that? By the way, it didn't make the continuous beeps when I was flushing it after I was out of the water, only when I was boating.
Any help with this i'd certainly appreciate it.
Peter M
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#2
Posted 19 June 2008 - 10:57 PM
Hi there,
can anybody help me out with why I'm getting continuous beeps? the manual says engine is overheating, and gives me the reasons. It says wrong type of fuel or oil, but that can't be it, i'm using the fuel I had in it last week. It also says that the coolant system is clogged and to flush it with a garden hose. Is this the same as flushing the engines once I'm out of the water? And it also says clogged jet pump water intake and to clean. Any tips on that? By the way, it didn't make the continuous beeps when I was flushing it after I was out of the water, only when I was boating.
Any help with this i'd certainly appreciate it.
Peter M
We need more info... is it a "beeeeeeeeeeeeeep" or is it a "beep" beep" beep" or what? What year is your challenger? What engine?
#3
Posted 20 June 2008 - 04:24 AM
Hi there,
can anybody help me out with why I'm getting continuous beeps? the manual says engine is overheating, and gives me the reasons. It says wrong type of fuel or oil, but that can't be it, i'm using the fuel I had in it last week. It also says that the coolant system is clogged and to flush it with a garden hose. Is this the same as flushing the engines once I'm out of the water? And it also says clogged jet pump water intake and to clean. Any tips on that? By the way, it didn't make the continuous beeps when I was flushing it after I was out of the water, only when I was boating.
Any help with this i'd certainly appreciate it.
Peter M
Sorry, it's a beep beep beep beep! It's a 1997 Sea doo Challenger 1800, Twin Rotax, 110 hp engines.
#4
Posted 20 June 2008 - 09:32 AM
Sorry, it's a beep beep beep beep! It's a 1997 Sea doo Challenger 1800, Twin Rotax, 110 hp engines.
If it is 4 short beeps then it simply means the key is on without the engine running. Am I missing something here? Does the pattern repeat?
Kevin Seeber
Kingsland Marine
Kingsland Marine
#5
Posted 20 June 2008 - 01:43 PM
If it is 4 short beeps then it simply means the key is on without the engine running. Am I missing something here? Does the pattern repeat?
Kevin Seeber
Kingsland Marine
No, it keeps beeping until I turn the engines off. It's not a continuous sound, it's beep beep beep, etc. Until I turned the motors off then it stopped. Once i turned them on again, after a couple of minutes it started beeping again, until I turned the motors off again.
#6
Posted 20 June 2008 - 05:53 PM
Oil Warning Systems Warning Horn Function Sound Description
Start Up One Beep Normal System Test
Low Oil Reserve
Four Beeps every 2 Minutes
Oil level is low in the engine mounted oil reservoir
tank. Refill the engine mounted oil reservoir tank
along with the remote oil tank. Refer to Fuel & Oil
Section.
Oil Level is Critically Low
Continuous
Engine Guardian System is activated. Power
limit will allow a fast idle. The oil level is critically
low in the engine mounted oil reservoir tank. Refill
the engine mounted oil reservoir tank along
with the remote oil tank. Refer to Fuel and Oil
Section.
Oil Pump Failure
Continuous
Engine Guardian System is activated. Power
limit will allow a fast idle. The warning horn is
activated if the oil pump should ever stop functioning
electrically. No lubricating oil is being
supplied to the engine.
#7
Posted 20 June 2008 - 05:57 PM
#8
Posted 20 June 2008 - 09:27 PM
I would check you oil resevoir level adn your oil pump
I'll do that, it looks like there's oil in the reservoir. How exactly do I check the pump? Sorry for the many dumb questions, I'm not an engine guy. It looks like there's oil in the reservoir though. Do you know what the oil/fuel ratio is?
#9
Posted 21 June 2008 - 03:03 PM
I'll do that, it looks like there's oil in the reservoir. How exactly do I check the pump? Sorry for the many dumb questions, I'm not an engine guy. It looks like there's oil in the reservoir though. Do you know what the oil/fuel ratio is?
I'm sure there are those who will disagree BUT the oil pump on the 717, 787, and 947 2 stroke engines is a variable rate pump for a reason. At low speeds the typical 20, 25, 40 or 50 to 1 ratio premixed gas causes plugs to foul and at higher RPMs there is probably not enough oil resulting in siezures and burned pistons. Its not as bad in a personal watercraft as it is in a sport boat because sport boats typically idle more or spend more time in mid range. The oiling system is worth it primarily because over time it saves oil, and is cleaner for the environment. If you have a Rotax 2 stroke 717 or 787 engine and idle a lot you might want to switch to a NGK BR7ES plug instead of the BR8ES plug that is recommended for normal use. If you do a disproportionate amount of high speed driving then stick with the BR8ES plugs as they are colder. I am willing to bet that for every "success" story you have heard about switching to premix fuel we can give you 5 horror stories of either excessively fouled plugs or burned pistons. I'm just sayin'
Kevin Seeber
Kingsland Marine
Kingsland Marine
#10
Posted 21 June 2008 - 03:44 PM
I'm sure there are those who will disagree BUT the oil pump on the 717, 787, and 947 2 stroke engines is a variable rate pump for a reason. At low speeds the typical 20, 25, 40 or 50 to 1 ratio premixed gas causes plugs to foul and at higher RPMs there is probably not enough oil resulting in siezures and burned pistons. Its not as bad in a personal watercraft as it is in a sport boat because sport boats typically idle more or spend more time in mid range. The oiling system is worth it primarily because over time it saves oil, and is cleaner for the environment. If you have a Rotax 2 stroke 717 or 787 engine and idle a lot you might want to switch to a NGK BR7ES plug instead of the BR8ES plug that is recommended for normal use. If you do a disproportionate amount of high speed driving then stick with the BR8ES plugs as they are colder. I am willing to bet that for every "success" story you have heard about switching to premix fuel we can give you 5 horror stories of either excessively fouled plugs or burned pistons. I'm just sayin'
Kevin Seeber
Kingsland Marine
The guy who sold me the boat recommended BR8ES so that's what I'm currently using. I'll have to bring the boat in. Hopefully the boat mechanic will be able to tell me what it going on with it.
#11
Posted 22 June 2008 - 03:44 PM
I don't think anybody was talking abot getting rid of the oil pump and moving to premix. He was just asking what the ratio was. I was originally saying something could be wrong with his oil pump. And going to oil premix would be for the mechanically inclined only. I can seeboth sides of the problem, premix- you know its always getting lubrication, mechanical pump- usually too late before you know your not getting enough lubeI'm sure there are those who will disagree BUT the oil pump on the 717, 787, and 947 2 stroke engines is a variable rate pump for a reason. At low speeds the typical 20, 25, 40 or 50 to 1 ratio premixed gas causes plugs to foul and at higher RPMs there is probably not enough oil resulting in siezures and burned pistons. Its not as bad in a personal watercraft as it is in a sport boat because sport boats typically idle more or spend more time in mid range. The oiling system is worth it primarily because over time it saves oil, and is cleaner for the environment. If you have a Rotax 2 stroke 717 or 787 engine and idle a lot you might want to switch to a NGK BR7ES plug instead of the BR8ES plug that is recommended for normal use. If you do a disproportionate amount of high speed driving then stick with the BR8ES plugs as they are colder. I am willing to bet that for every "success" story you have heard about switching to premix fuel we can give you 5 horror stories of either excessively fouled plugs or burned pistons. I'm just sayin'
Kevin Seeber
Kingsland Marine
#12
Posted 23 June 2008 - 04:29 AM
#13
Posted 23 June 2008 - 11:37 AM
Well it's definately using oil, we had it our again last night, and you can see and smell the oil when we're running it. We had it out for about 20 minutes or so, no beeps. I don't know if that means there was something in the intake that came out after the last run, or that we just didn't have it running hard or fast enough to get hot. I'll have to take it out again and give it a good run to see.
Hopefully it was just something in the intake orthe "pee" tube and just overheated and now is good! I know that the warning light is really frustrating, but its better than just a light and you have to take it to a dealer and pay them to see what it is like on cars
Let us know whats going on
#14
Posted 07 July 2008 - 08:46 AM
Hopefully it was just something in the intake orthe "pee" tube and just overheated and now is good! I know that the warning light is really frustrating, but its better than just a light and you have to take it to a dealer and pay them to see what it is like on cars
Let us know whats going on
Well I was out on Stanley Bridge from 12:30 to 5:30 yesterday, no problems with the beeping, so I can only guess it was something that took care of itself. However my port side engine kept on quitting on me. It was just bog out and die. Once I started it again it was ok, but a while later, usually when I was only on idle, it would konk out on me. Also when I went from idle to top throttle both motors would be a little boggish, then they would speed up. Could this be my spark plugs? This was my fifth time out this summer, and this was the longest trip we had. I have an extra set of spark plugs in the boat but didn't really think they would need to be replaced that quickly. Is there a way by looking at the ones i'm using now whether or not they need to be repaired?
#15
Posted 31 July 2009 - 09:59 PM
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