14 replies to this topic

[Scarface]

I am about to get 2 new gallons of the sea doo ashless synthetic oil and i was wondering if it is safe to mix it with the amsoil thats in there now? if not, is there a drain on the oil tank to let it out or am i going to have to use an electric pump to get the old oil out? thanks alot!

[Scarface]

I was told by the guy at the store that it would be ok to put the new oil on top of the old oil as long as they are both synthetic, i am going to wait until i know something here because you guys seem to know alot!

btw i have amsoil in there now and i dont know if it is synthetic...

[tiggerman]

I doo believe the Amsoil is a synthetic. You probably could run the tank really low and then pour in some fresh Bombardier oil, minimizing the mixing of the two. I don't like to mix. You could also drain the tank and lines and refill with fresh Bombardier.....which ever you're comfortable with. I'm not an oil-ologist
So I can't say with authority if the 2 will play well together.

[Scarface]

I doo believe the Amsoil is a synthetic. You probably could run the tank really low and then pour in some fresh Bombardier oil, minimizing the mixing of the two. I don't like to mix. You could also drain the tank and lines and refill with fresh Bombardier.....which ever you're comfortable with. I'm not an oil-ologist
So I can't say with authority if the 2 will play well together.

Well tomorrow morning I will look at the oil tank and see if I think I need to add any oil....How low should I let it get before I should add any? Right now it is right below the halfway area of the tank...Maybe I should wait till it gets lower? i CAN'T WAIT TO GET OUT ON THE WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[tiggerman]

My manual says that full = 1/2 inch from the top of the reservoir. I assume your oil tank looks like mine: I never fill mine to that 1/2 inch level. I keep it right at the level of the sender in my tank. I found that my tank tends to leak if I fill it past that point.
Go ahead and top it off and take it out tomorrow, man! We went today, and it was a perfect day for it. Water was a little warmer than last weekend (warmest I found today was 75) but not quite warm enough to be comfortable..

[secord]

Not sure if this is right or not, but I have added the SeaDoo Synthetic on top of Amsoil in my '97 SPX PWC, on several times without any problems. I interchange the two quite often, depending on what I can find and the price. I too let the oil level get low before adding the Sea Doo Oil over the Amsoil. I have never had a problem. If regular oil and synthetic are mixed, it fouls the plugs on that machine. (Found out the hard way when someone thought they were helping!)

Yes, the Amsoil is synthetic.

[tiggerman]

There ya have it. If it works on your ski, it should work on his Doo too. I would not mix synthetic and non-synthetic though. I don't have the problem of mixing, because I use the same oil all the time. I may change to the Citgo Sea and Snow- I found it for really cheap at Academy Sports. $9.99/gallon

[secord]

Citgo Sea and Snow??

10 bucks a gallon? Yikes. If you make it through the year, let me know, and I will try it...next year.

[tiggerman]

Yikes? I thought it was pretty good considering Bombardier is around $19 a gallon around here for the non-synthetic. Have you used the Citgo before? What is the cost for Amsoil?

[secord]

The Yikes is for the low cost. The "Old Man" once told me, you get what you pay for, blah, blah, blah. He also said, "Oil is cheap. Buy the best and keep it full." Not sure on oil for a jet boat at 10 bucks a gallon. Some people say that "oil is oil" but I am not convinced on that.

The Amsoil is synthetic. I run that in the SPX that I own. It is a bit costly. Just received four (4) one gallon bottles from Amsoil for $75.00, so just under $20.00 per gallon.

[tiggerman]

The just under $20 bucks is not so bad for Amsoil. I hear it is about the best. You're absolutely correct: all oils are not created equal. My '97 with the twin 717's (720) does not require synthetic oil. It does require a low-ash oil, such as the Bombardier.
The Citgo is a synthetic blend, and one of the few that doo meet the specs that Seadoo calls for on these engines. My boat specifically states 'do not use NMMA TC-W3 oils'. That eliminates most outboard 2 stroke oils. This is from the Citgo website:
SUPERGARD® Sea and SnowTM is formulated primarily for use in high performance air-cooled or liquid two-stroke engines of Personal Water Craft (PWC) and Snowmobiles. It can be used in motorcycles, generators, lawnmowers, and hand held power equipment such as leaf blowers, trimmers, and chainsaws. SUPERGARD® Sea and SnowTM provides the necessary protection to keep your snowmobile or PWC running cleaner, longer, and with less smoke.
And this:
In addition, SUPERGARD® Two-Cycle Engine Oil is a synthetic blend which reduces exhaust smoke and prevents piston seizure and cylinder scuffing. SUPERGARD® 2-Cycle Engine Oil is prediluted to allow easy mixing with gasoline and smooth flowing in oil injection systems. CITGO SUPERGARD® 2-Cycle Engine Oil can be used in either premix or oil injection systems up to 50:1 fuel to oil ratios. Not recommended for engines requiring an NMMA TC-W3, TC-WII, or TC-W product.
My impression: Any low ash type oils like the ones that are rated API-TC, ISO-EGD, and JASO-FC will work fine in my engine. This includes the Citgo. Besides, I can afford it and it is plentiful. We could debate oil forever, but others already have. It all boils down to preference. And cost in my case.

[secord]

Sounds good. The 10.00 is about the best price per gallon that I have heard of for any oil that will work. The local Marina wear we live will fill your gallon jug with any kind that they have, for 12.00, so it even beats that.

I am not debating oil, it just seems like a very low cost to me, and for what little oil that I use, I will continue to use what has been working for me.

Now if you can find a low price on gas, I'll try it.

[tiggerman]

Gas here is still hovering at $1.70, and $2.00 at the lake. By all means use the oil you are comfortable with. If it works, stick with it. It'll be my luck by the time I need some of that oil, they will either be out, or the price will go up. Ya gotta pay to play!
I see Kevin has several oil links up top....

[TexasA&MSpeedster]

I usually go with quicksilver... It's got a good reputation and is relatively cheap...

Says on the back that it in all oil injected PWCs, snow mobiles etc...

Does anyone know any different?

and what does NMMA stand for?

[tiggerman]

It has a good reputation for outboard engines, yes, and is cheap- however, unless it is the Quicksilver specifically for PWC's (It will say so on the front label), you're flirting with disaster when it comes to your Rotax. The NMMA is the National Marine Manufacturers Association, and their certifications TC-W, TC-WII, and TC-W3 are not meant to be used in the Rotax engine. You need an API-TC, ISO-EGD, or JASO-FC oil as specified by Bombardier. The TC-W oils are ashless due to additives, the API-TC oils are low ash due to certain other additives. Using the wrong oil will cause premature wear on piston skirts and cylinder walls or cause the engine to seize due to higher temperatures from inadequate lubrication. Either use the Bombardier oil, or a suitable alternative, such as an Amsoil, Citgo, or Quaker State product. If your Quicksilver says PWC in big letters on the front of the bottle, you are safe. The regular Quicksilver does say that it includes engines that require a API-TC certification, but it was not specifically designed for that purpose. The Rotax is an entirely different animal than your normal outboard or weed eater.....