6 replies to this topic

[wingohopkins]

I had my boat in the water recently and we had a two day rain storm - loads of rain - 11 inches. When the rain finally subsided and I could get my boat out of the water, I found about 600 gallons of water in my boat. My ski caddy was full and my battery was almost underwater. I immediately grabbed my neighbors bilge pump and hooked it up to my battery and spent about 3 hours pumping water. My (auto) bilge was under water but not on.

Once I got my boat on my trailer the (auto) bilge started pumping away. What the hell??

Does this have a timer, is there some type of motion sensor, is it defective, can I override and kick it on?

Anyone?

Thanks!

-Amber

[tiggerman]

I had my boat in the water recently and we had a two day rain storm - loads of rain - 11 inches.  When the rain finally subsided and I could get my boat out of the water, I found about 600 gallons of water in my boat.  My ski caddy was full and my battery was almost underwater.  I immediately grabbed my neighbors bilge pump and hooked it up to my battery and spent about 3 hours pumping water.  My (auto) bilge was under water but not on. 

Once I got my boat on my trailer the (auto) bilge started pumping away.  What the hell?? 

Does this have a timer, is there some type of motion sensor, is it defective, can I override and kick it on?

Anyone?

Thanks!

-Amber

The float switch (could be separate or integrated to the bilge pump) was stuck off, which means it never made contact and started pumping. The fact that it started when you moved the boat from the water indicates a good fuse and a sticking/stuck/dirty switch- but you should have been able to use the manual switch to overide the auto.. The older boats had a switch with 2 contacts that completed the circuit when water covered them. Kinda cheesy way to make a switch. These switches were notorious for getting dirty (oil, sand, etc...) and not making contact when it counted. I would assume that Bombardier went to a more civilized type of float/pump assembly that was more reliable.
Most pumps are manufactured by Rule, and can be somewhat disassembled and cleaned, or maybe your warranty will cover replacement of your pump by your dealer. Personally, I would try the cleaning method first, then the replacing.
On another note, send some of your rain down south, please!

[wingohopkins]

I had my boat in the water recently and we had a two day rain storm - loads of rain - 11 inches.  When the rain finally subsided and I could get my boat out of the water, I found about 600 gallons of water in my boat.  My ski caddy was full and my battery was almost underwater.  I immediately grabbed my neighbors bilge pump and hooked it up to my battery and spent about 3 hours pumping water.  My (auto) bilge was under water but not on. 

Once I got my boat on my trailer the (auto) bilge started pumping away.  What the hell?? 

Does this have a timer, is there some type of motion sensor, is it defective, can I override and kick it on?

Anyone?

Thanks!

-Amber

The float switch (could be separate or integrated to the bilge pump) was stuck off, which means it never made contact and started pumping. The fact that it started when you moved the boat from the water indicates a good fuse and a sticking/stuck/dirty switch- but you should have been able to use the manual switch to overide the auto.. The older boats had a switch with 2 contacts that completed the circuit when water covered them. Kinda cheesy way to make a switch. These switches were notorious for getting dirty (oil, sand, etc...) and not making contact when it counted. I would assume that Bombardier went to a more civilized type of float/pump assembly that was more reliable.
Most pumps are manufactured by Rule, and can be somewhat disassembled and cleaned, or maybe your warranty will cover replacement of your pump by your dealer. Personally, I would try the cleaning method first, then the replacing.
On another note, send some of your rain down south, please!

Thats awesome but where do I find the switch to kick it on?

[tiggerman]

Hmm, if it is a 2005 Challenger 180 4TEC SC or SCIC, then there should be a row of switches down the right side of the console- 3rd switch down. If it is a 2005 Challenger X, then there is a row of 3 horizontal switches on the right of the console, first switch. Did you happen to get an operators manual with your boat?

[wingohopkins]

Hmm, if it is a 2005 Challenger 180 4TEC SC or SCIC, then there should be a row of switches down the right side of the console- 3rd switch down. If it is a 2005 Challenger X, then there is a row of 3 horizontal switches on the right of the console, first switch. Did you happen to get an operators manual with your boat?

Yes - it is none of those switches. They are all lights, horns, vent (for gas area) and back flow (or whatever you call it if you get seaweed.

[tiggerman]

wow.... here is a schematic showing the 180 SC or SCIC: top right of diagram shows switches which are numbered. third one down is number 18-19.
According to BRP Parts, this is the BILGE SWITCH ASSEMBLY. If that switch is not your bilge switch, then you should see a dealer or find out why that switch doesn't operate the bilge.
The top switch should be the weedless (ICS- Inlet Clearing System)
2nd is the horn
3rd is the bilge
4th is the engine compartment blower
5th is the navigation lights
6th is the courtesy lighting

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[wingohopkins]

Thanks for your help - I truly had a pad and not a switch on number 3.